http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/ HotTubWorks Spa Repair Forum: Forum: New Control Box or Pack - Recent Posts en Sat, 20 Mar 2010 16:38:04 +0000 http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/topic/control-panel#post-347 Mon, 11 Jan 2010 09:50:56 +0000 Mary 347@http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/ <p>The <a href="http://www.hottubworks.com/SpaParts/CabinetSides.php">control panels</a> will be different. They used one style 800 panel from 1991-1993. Then used another from 1993-1999. It will also depend if your spa has one pump or two, and if it has a small remote panel. The 1991-1993 panels are not interchangable to the 1993-1999 panel.<br /> The serial number of the spa should be located in the equipment area of the spa on either a UL or ETL sticker, it will also show the manufacture date.<br /> They went to a completely different style panel from 2000-to present. </p> http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/topic/control-panel#post-346 Mon, 11 Jan 2010 08:14:09 +0000 lcha 346@http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/ <p>we have an older sundance spa,the control panel let go last nite now the temp is down because somebody played with it . we can not find a serial # i think its an 800 series but not sure the panels look the same . my question is will the panels work if not exactly the same as mine dont want to spend $500 and not have it work </p> http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/topic/best-replacement-control-pack#post-299 Mon, 12 Oct 2009 11:55:47 +0000 Mary 299@http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/ <p>Having the <a href="http://www.hottubworks.com/SpaParts/HeaterComplete.php">spa heater</a> on all the time and keeping the temperature at 110 degrees will definately result in a higher electricity bill. That may be a result of a faulty <a href="http://www.hottubworks.com/SpaParts/HeaterSensors.php">temperature sensor</a>. The <a href="http://www.hottubworks.com/SpaParts/HeaterComplete.php">spa heater</a> will use more power than any other component in the spa including the <a href="http://www.hottubworks.com/SpaParts/PumpsSideCenterDischarge.php">spa pump</a>. Adding a <a href="http://www.hottubworks.com/SpaParts/PumpsCirculation.php">circulation pump</a> and having it pull or flow through the filter would help keep the water looking clearer. You would need to clean your filter more ofter if you choose this route. You would need to "T" off before the suction side of pump and "T" back in before the heater. The following two Balboa systems would work for you.<br /> The <a href="http://www.hottubworks.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=action&#38;key=B54218-Z">VS510 spa pack</a> is used for twin pumps and a blower, or 3 pumps.<br /> The <a href="http://www.hottubworks.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=action&#38;key=B54220-Z">VS501 spa pack</a> is used for pumps or a pump and blower.<br /> Both systems can operate the above plus, circulation pump, ozone, stereo, aux panel, and a 5.5kW heater. If you choose one of these Balboa packs you would need to go with the <a href="http://www.hottubworks.com/part-1-P101IM1524-item-hottub-circulation-pump.php">Iron Might circulation pump</a>. </p> http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/topic/best-replacement-control-pack#post-297 Fri, 09 Oct 2009 16:31:42 +0000 Anonymous 297@http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/ <p>'So my questions are: how can I force more water through the filter skimmer and what would be the best way to go on a control pack?'</p> <p>No help or comments out there? </p> http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/topic/best-replacement-control-pack#post-294 Sun, 04 Oct 2009 20:51:11 +0000 Anonymous 294@http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/ <p>I have a 2004 Viking II spa. Last winter (Michigan) the controls started acting up. The heater seemed like it was on all the time. No matter what you set the temp to it was 110 deg. It got to the point I just drained the spa and it has been empty for the past year. Just before that I had to put a new bearing in the pump motor. I would like to do a complete control pack and also upgrade to a second circulation pump and a new ozonator. The spa has a 2 speed motor but it still uses too much power in the winter and I think the additional lower powered circulator would be more economical (my electric bill went down ~$75 a month after I turned it off.) Also, the filtration does not seem to do well. The spa has 2 floor water intakes besides the filter skimmer. So my questions are: how can I force more water through the filter skimmer and what would be the best way to go on a control pack? </p> http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/topic/circuit-board-repair#post-236 Tue, 01 Sep 2009 12:05:10 +0000 Anonymous 236@http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/ <p>Try Spa-boards.com, they are located in Arizona, but repair boards nation wide, they are great I have used them many times. </p> http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/topic/circuit-board-repair#post-234 Thu, 27 Aug 2009 11:48:50 +0000 Mary 234@http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/ <p>There are companies that will repair <a href="http://www.hottubworks.com/SpaParts/ElectricalCircuitBoards.php">spa circuit boards</a> but we do not offer this service. I would recommend a new board, if you have it repaired you may have additional failures down the road such as capasitors, other relays, etc. </p> http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/topic/circuit-board-repair#post-228 Wed, 26 Aug 2009 10:40:32 +0000 Anonymous 228@http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/ <p>I have a 10yr old Hot Springs "Hot Spot" with Gecko # SSPA-1-P121 Spa Pack. The spa stopped working. Topside control is new and lights up. My new 2-speed pump that I purchased from Hot Tub Works is ok. To test the circuit board, I unplugged the topside control cable from the board while powered up. The pump is supposed to run according to a Gecko tech. It did not. It appears that the circuit board is bad. I have a difficult time understanding why the circuit board can't be tested and repaired instead of replacing the complete spa pack that Gecko wants me to do. Can I send the circuit board to you or somebody you recommend for testing? Maybe a simple relay, transformer or even the computer chip can be replaced instead of replacing the complete unit. I hate to think that I have been taken to the cleaners by a gecko!! Thank you. Evan </p> http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/topic/balboa-or-standard-packs#post-153 Mon, 22 Jun 2009 10:48:49 +0000 Mary 153@http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/ <p>Balboa pack: Uses electronic flow technology. No pressure or flow switch needed. No need to install a thermowell in the spa either, since the temp sensor is in the heater. </p> <p>Flex fit. Has the ability to move the heater to different locations to make plumbing easier. Use a pressure switch and temp sensor w/ thermowell </p> http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/topic/balboa-or-standard-packs#post-152 Mon, 22 Jun 2009 10:47:50 +0000 Mary 152@http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/ <p>What is the difference between the balboa and your regular spa packs? </p> http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/topic/new-standard-control-pack#post-79 Sat, 09 May 2009 06:52:00 +0000 herrweizen 79@http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/ <p>I just purchased a standard control pack from HotTubWorks and on page 16 of the manual, in all capital letters, it says "CAUTION: THE EQUIPMENT AND CONTROLS SHALL BE LOCATED NOT LESS THAN 1M (5 FT) HORIZONTALLY FROM THE SPA OR HOT TUB." it also has a sticker on it that says the same. This unit is meant to be installed under the skirt of the hot tub just as it is shown in the pictures on the web site. So I am in violation if I install the control pack in the same location as the original? This sounds like a "cover your ass" statement and any use of this product is at your own risk. If they are refering to the GFCI box, then the statement is very poorly worded. </p> http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/topic/digital-top-side-controller-1#post-74 Thu, 07 May 2009 07:05:06 +0000 Jeff 74@http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/ <p>How can I get a manual for the Digital top side controller that is sold with the spa packs? </p> http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/topic/digital-top-side-controller#post-72 Wed, 06 May 2009 14:40:57 +0000 Jeff 72@http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/ <p>How can I get a manual for the digital top side controller that is sold with a spa pack? </p> http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/topic/240v-balboa-controllers-are-pre-wired-to-run-a-120v-pump#post-65 Fri, 17 Apr 2009 23:08:25 +0000 marc 65@http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/ <p>This is something that comes up a lot. When you purchase a Balboa VS 500, 501, or 510, they are pre wired from Balboa to run the pump(s) on 120v so if you have 240v pump(s) you need to change a few little things before you turn on your new controller. What happens is the pump either wont run or it cycles On and Off, On and Off, over and over. This is because you cant run a 240v pump on 120v. DONT THINK THAT JUST BECAUSE YOU HAVE 240V HOOKED INTO THE CONTROL BOX THAT YOU ALSO HAVE 240V TO YOUR PUMP(S).<br /> Most controllers that are convertible (120v or 240v) use 120v pumps -even in a 240v control box.<br /> So back to what you need to change ---- Your PUMP 1 should be plugged into J23, next to that plug is a White wire -W1, the other end of that wire is most likely plugged into the WHITE AC patch just above your main wire hookup.<br /> That end needs to be moved from the WHITE AC area, to the RED AC area just below the main wire terminal. Now that plug (j23) is wired for 240v . Thats it . Most of the other functions work the same way . Plug J47 is for a circulation pump and its change over wire is W2 - right next to it. BLOWER or Pump2 , use plug number J17/26 -and it has a change over wire next to it too. </p> <p>We also have video tool boxes on the web site hottubworks.com that can be very helpful as well. </p> http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/topic/how-do-you-covert-the-control-box-from-240v-to-120v#post-64 Fri, 17 Apr 2009 22:53:32 +0000 marc 64@http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/ <p>One of the nice things about the newer control boxes is that they offer many options and Balboa has many. Unless ordered special from Balboa most all of their control boxes come ready to run 240 volt hookups. If you want to use 120v you need to change a few things and its faster and safer if you order a GFCI cord with your new control box.<br /> On Balboa VS series there should be a short white wire taped to the back of the control box, this is to be your jumper that will connect the RED main terminal to the neutral main terminal SEE THE WIRE DIAGRAM ON THE INSIDE OF THE BOX. Then there is a row of small little switches- called DIP switches (usually down towards the bottom of the board just to the right side). Number 10 switch must be pushed UP --or ON, this puts the system into a lower AMP mode for the 120v hookup. </p> <p>and thats about it --- if you have a cord you will just keep the colors matched up , Black cord wire to black main terminal ect ect . </p> <p>let me know if you need anymore help<br /> Marc </p> http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/topic/how-do-you-covert-the-control-box-from-240v-to-120v#post-63 Fri, 17 Apr 2009 22:42:08 +0000 Drlewis 63@http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/ <p>Hi , i bought one of your Balboa control boxes to upgrade my old air button controlled spa but i dont see how you make it run on 120 volts --the heater is a 5.5kw . Did i get the wrong controller ? Please let me know . </p>