http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/ HotTubWorks Spa Repair Forum: Recent Posts en Sat, 21 Nov 2009 01:01:01 +0000 http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/topic/bad-pump#post-325 Tue, 17 Nov 2009 14:26:02 +0000 Mary 325@http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/ <p>It does sound like your <a href="http://www.hottubworks.com/SpaParts/PumpsSideCenterDischarge.php">spa pump</a> may be bad but first I would push the jet button and when you hear the relays click then take a voltage reading going to the motor. </p> http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/topic/how-to-set-heating-cycles#post-324 Tue, 17 Nov 2009 14:20:39 +0000 Mary 324@http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/ <p>Economy mode means the spa will only heat during its set filter cycles. Standard mode will heat the spa on demand. I have included a link for the owners manual and it is confusing.<br /> <a href="http://www.spasbyleisurebay.com/PDF_Manuals/Celebrity%20Manual_02.pdf" rel="nofollow">http://www.spasbyleisurebay.com/PDF_Manuals/Celebrity%20Manual_02.pdf</a><br /> So whichever filter cycles you have set for your spa it will only heat during these cycles. </p> http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/topic/bad-pump#post-323 Sun, 15 Nov 2009 12:53:59 +0000 lsparedes 323@http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/ <p>Pump 1 low speed doesnt work,high speed only works for 15 seconds then turns off.Then pump 1 becomes inoperable. When I try to activate pump 1 ,I hear a click. Pump 2 works fine. Is pump 1 broken? Any comments welcome ,thanks in advance.<br /> (220, 3hp, 2 speed pump) </p> http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/topic/how-to-set-heating-cycles#post-322 Sun, 15 Nov 2009 07:49:29 +0000 RogerSab 322@http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/ <p>I have a Tonga hot tub from Leisure Spas. I want to program the heating cycles as it implies in the manual. Page 15 of manual says "Economy Mode operates the heater only during programmed Heating Cycles (See "Setting Heating Cycles" below)" Only problem is there is no section on "Setting Heating Cycles" so I have no idea how to program the heating times. I searched the internet high and low with no luck. Does anyone know how to do this or even how to contact this manufacturer? Any help would be greatly appreciated. </p> http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/topic/fl-2-code#post-320 Mon, 09 Nov 2009 14:00:23 +0000 Mary 320@http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/ <p>Since you got a flow error code when you first started up you may have had an air lock in the pump since it was drained and refilled. You can try running the pump and just slightly unscrew the drain plug on the pump just enough to allow a small amount of water to drain out.<br /> Also check and make sure diverter valves are open. Depending on the year of the spa some jets can be turned off by rotating the face of the jets, verify that they are open if that is the case. </p> http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/topic/fl-2-code#post-319 Fri, 06 Nov 2009 21:22:15 +0000 Richard 319@http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/ <p>I have a Jacuzzi 220 and after a recent draining and cleaning the fill and start<br /> I got a FL-2 for 30 seconds then every thing was went to normal on the digtal pad.<br /> Everything works, pump, heater, light but 2sets of the four jets don't work.<br /> Re-checked every thing but still does not work.<br /> Please advise.<br /> Thanks </p> http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/topic/flo-code#post-318 Fri, 06 Nov 2009 21:09:12 +0000 Richard 318@http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/ <p>I have a Jacuzzi 220 and just drained andcleaned it and filled it up and plugged it in and got a FL-2 code for about 30 seconds. Everything works but 2 of the 4 sets of jets are not working. I went back and followed all steps to see if I knocked something loose but found nothing. What would cause this?</p> <p>Richard </p> http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/topic/gunk-blowing-out-of-jets#post-317 Wed, 28 Oct 2009 14:58:10 +0000 cbdawes 317@http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/ <p>Thanks so much for your help - I will give it a try. </p> http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/topic/gunk-blowing-out-of-jets#post-316 Wed, 28 Oct 2009 12:09:49 +0000 Mary 316@http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/ <p>It is usually caused by poor or non circulating water. I don't know how long the water sat in the lines due to the circulation pump being out. That may have caused it, but I don't know if they actually tested your water to verify that is what you are actually have. This can attach to the pvc and behind jets, etc. It is very difficult to get rid of so I cannot say if it will come back. Since you have already shocked it once and drained and refill I would do the following. While the water is still in brush or wipe sides down, shock with remainder of your shock and circulate at least 24 hour, drain and refill. There is a product called Spa System Flush that is to be put in right before draining and refilling. I have no experience with this but it is suppose to help remove build up on the wall of the pvc pipes. </p> http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/topic/gunk-blowing-out-of-jets#post-315 Wed, 28 Oct 2009 11:51:41 +0000 cbdawes 315@http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/ <p>I just want to make sure I understand the process: The gunk came out after a spa cleaning,drain &#38; refill that began with circulating 1/2 bag of pool shock (Burnout 35) for 1 hour. So, is your recommendation to clean spa w/ water in it, removing as much mold as possible, then adding the shock (is the other 1/2 bag of Burnout enough or should I use something else?), circulating for 1 - 24 hours, then drain and refill? How likely is it that more gunk will come out at startup after refill? I've had spas for 10 yrs without this kind of issue - what do you think caused it? </p> http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/topic/gunk-blowing-out-of-jets#post-314 Wed, 28 Oct 2009 10:15:45 +0000 Mary 314@http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/ <p>Spa water mold does look like a whitish gunky material sometimes flaky like little bits of tissue. I am not sure this is what you have but does sound like it. Did the spa store test your water to determine? If so then they are advising you correctly. If they didn't test the water you should have it tested at a pool/spa store. If it is indeed spa water mold you must treat immediately and don't skimp. You want to clean all spa surfaces, including behind <a href="http://www.hottubworks.com/SpaParts/Pillows.php">spa pillows</a>, inside <a href="http://www.hottubworks.com/SpaParts/JetsLanding.php">spa jets</a>, and any <a href="http://www.hottubworks.com/HotTubAccessories/">spa toys</a> you may have had in the spa. Also make sure you clean inside the <a href="http://www.hottubworks.com/HotTubSpaFilters/Filter_Search.php">spa filter</a> compartment. Even though your filter is new I would recommend it is soaked in a filter cleaning solution. You then want to shock with a triple or quadruple dose of the proper <a href="http://www.hottubworks.com/HotTubChemicals/">shock</a> treatment for your spa run for one hour then drain and refill. If your situation is very bad then you may want to shock with chlorine and circulate one full day then drain and refill. Make sure after it's been refilled to maintain proper water balance. </p> http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/topic/gunk-blowing-out-of-jets#post-313 Tue, 27 Oct 2009 15:17:04 +0000 cbdawes 313@http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/ <p>I drained and refilled my Optima, due to a FLO error, which included replacing the filter. When I started it up, it would not come on. Serviceman determined bad circulation pump, so I had to drain the spa again and wait 2.5 wks for him to return. He replaced the pump, and when I refilled and started the spa, lots of whitish, flakey gunk blew out of the jets. Spa Store advised it was "water mold?" and to put in 1/2 bag of pool shock and circulate for 1 hr., then drain and refill, which I did. At startup, even more gunk blew out of the jets. I have used a skimmer to capture as much as I can, but feel like there is something else going on. Any ideas on how to resolve? </p> http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/topic/hot-springs-sovereign-spa#post-312 Tue, 27 Oct 2009 11:20:15 +0000 Mary 312@http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/ <p>Most manufactures will have downloadable owners manuals on their website. Yes this does not look like a 1993 serial number, there should be six numbers with the first designating what quarter and the second number would designate what year the spa was manufactured. If you would like assistance in replacing your pump and siding please e-mail me directly to <a href="mailto:mary@hottubworks.com.">mary@hottubworks.com.</a> Since we are not exactly sure when the spa was manufactured I may need you to send some digital pictures of the old <a href="http://www.hottubworks.com/SpaParts/PumpsLanding.php">spa pump</a> if possible. </p> http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/topic/winterize-my-spa#post-311 Tue, 27 Oct 2009 11:02:13 +0000 Mary 311@http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/ <p>Yes you need to blow out all the lines to prevent the plumbing from cracking. Also, you should drain your <a href="http://www.hottubworks.com/SpaParts/PumpsLanding.php">spa pump</a> or pumps if you have more than one. There should be a drain plug on the pump that you can remove to drain. If you have a heater that has a large union nut connecting to the pump you can also loosen that up to drain whatever water that remained in the <a href="http://www.hottubworks.com/SpaParts/HeatersLanding.php">spa heater</a> and <a href="http://www.hottubworks.com/SpaParts/PlumbingLanding.php">plumbing</a> lines that go out to the tub. Tighen that back up when fininsh, and to prevent loosing the pump plugs I would put those back in place after draining. </p> http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/topic/winterize-my-spa#post-310 Tue, 27 Oct 2009 10:58:23 +0000 Mary 310@http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/ <p>Hello,</p> <p>We have enjoyed many products from you guys! I had a question, no one in my family uses the hot tub in the winter here in NJ. I want to shut it down to save on electricity over the winter (my husband is out of work) If I drain the hot tub, do I need to blow out the lines or do anything to winterize it or do I just drain the water and turn the electricity off? </p> http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/topic/hot-springs-sovereign-spa#post-309 Mon, 26 Oct 2009 17:01:41 +0000 kirks85 309@http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/ <p>Hi<br /> I recently purchased a secondhand hot springs sovereign spa on the cheap. I have been told its a 1993 model but the serial # is 10723 which is apparently not what it should be. I got it cheap as it needs a pump and the cabinet needs repairs. I'm also chasing a manual for this spa as i have no idea how spa's works as this is my first spa.</p> <p>Any help would be greatly appreciated</p> <p>Kirstyn </p> http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/topic/too-much-baqua-spa-sanitizer#post-308 Fri, 23 Oct 2009 19:55:10 +0000 icewoz 308@http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/ <p>Drained about 6" of water, threw a cup of Spa Perfect in it, a day later it was crystal clear, been like that every since. </p> http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/topic/flo-error#post-307 Tue, 20 Oct 2009 10:23:38 +0000 Mary 307@http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/ <p>The FLO error could be caused by a clogged or dirty <a>spa filter</a>. You can try removing the filter to see if that makes a difference. A filter may look clean but can still clog if it has not been replaced with a new one in a while. You said that the <a href="http://www.hottubworks.com/SpaParts/PumpsCirculation.php">spa circulation pump</a> feels likes its working, you should be able to feel a small constant stream of water coming out of the heater return fitting. The other component that can cause a FLO error would be the <a href="http://www.hottubworks.com/SpaParts/HeaterFlowSwitches.php">flow switch</a>. The spa will not heat in a FLO condition. When you push the button on the panel to increase the temperature does the display change settings and the spa if just not heating? Or does it reach a certain setting and will not go any further but you can then lower it? </p> http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/topic/small-finessand-in-water#post-306 Tue, 20 Oct 2009 09:50:17 +0000 Mary 306@http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/ <p>Has this been happening for a while now? Have you changed the brand of <a href="http://www.hottubworks.com/HotTubChemicals/">spa chemicals</a> that you are currently using? I would recommend to use a quality spa chemical. You can find cheaper chemicals out there but a lot of times these will contain fillers and leave by products behind. A quality chemical may cost more but in the long run you use less because they aren't filled with fillers. </p> http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/topic/message-hh-heater-hot#post-305 Tue, 20 Oct 2009 09:42:21 +0000 Mary 305@http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/ <p>If both sensors are mounted on the <a href="http://www.hottubworks.com/SpaParts/HeaterComplete.php">spa heater</a> then chances are they will both be the same type sensor. One is the <a href="http://www.hottubworks.com/SpaParts/HeaterHiLimits.php">high limit</a>, the other is the <a href="http://www.hottubworks.com/SpaParts/HeaterSensors.php">temperature sensor</a>. You only need to replace one, the high limit. You may have a wiring diagram inside the load box showing where the high limit plugs into the <a href="http://www.hottubworks.com/SpaParts/ElectricalCircuitBoards.php">circuit board</a>. You could then trace the wire back to the correct sensor on the spa heater. </p> http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/topic/small-finessand-in-water#post-304 Tue, 20 Oct 2009 09:23:25 +0000 slhuber 304@http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/ <p>I have a similar problem with my HotSpring spa - small, fine white-beige sand crystals. I change the water and it appears to work for a while and then they start to "grow" all over the inside of the spa. I use Spa Down because of extremely hard water, use a calcium and iron filter when I fill the spa.</p> <p>I'm pretty sure it is probably the water, chemicals, or some cross reactivity but any suggestions on how to make it stop? I live in a cold climate so changing the water in the middle of winter isn't an option. </p> http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/topic/message-hh-heater-hot#post-303 Mon, 19 Oct 2009 17:23:02 +0000 jay m 303@http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/ <p>Mary, thanks for the tip. The model I have has two sensors, is there a way to find out which one is bad or do I have to replace both ..? </p> http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/topic/flo-error#post-302 Sun, 18 Oct 2009 16:03:47 +0000 Carolyn 302@http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/ <p>Refilled and started hot tub after 8 months empty. FLO error appeared on display. Only able to move temp in cooler direction - no increase in temp settings. Jets work with button pressed. Feels like circulating pump (just replaced) is working. Water feels cool - no increase in temp. Please advise on what to check next. </p> http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/topic/message-hh-heater-hot#post-301 Fri, 16 Oct 2009 10:06:47 +0000 Mary 301@http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/ <p>It very well could be the <a href="http://www.hottubworks.com/SpaParts/HeaterHiLimits.php">spa high limit sensor</a> causing the problem. Is the water flow the same? You can try removing the <a href="http://www.hottubworks.com/HotTubSpaFilters/Filter_Search.php">spa filter</a> and try running it and see if it goes into hh. If so, then I would start with the high limit. </p> http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/topic/message-hh-heater-hot#post-300 Wed, 14 Oct 2009 12:39:51 +0000 jay m 300@http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/ <p>I have a celebrity model TONGA S made by leisure spas and I keep getting this message (HH). In the manual these two letters mean heater hot in excess of 118 degrees. That is not the case because the SPA shuts down within minutes of turning it on. I have looked at the SPA PACK housing and the heater is NOT hot at all.Could it be the sensor giving A false reading and shutting down the spa.?Is there anything else I can look at ? </p> http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/topic/best-replacement-control-pack#post-299 Mon, 12 Oct 2009 11:55:47 +0000 Mary 299@http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/ <p>Having the <a href="http://www.hottubworks.com/SpaParts/HeaterComplete.php">spa heater</a> on all the time and keeping the temperature at 110 degrees will definately result in a higher electricity bill. That may be a result of a faulty <a href="http://www.hottubworks.com/SpaParts/HeaterSensors.php">temperature sensor</a>. The <a href="http://www.hottubworks.com/SpaParts/HeaterComplete.php">spa heater</a> will use more power than any other component in the spa including the <a href="http://www.hottubworks.com/SpaParts/PumpsSideCenterDischarge.php">spa pump</a>. Adding a <a href="http://www.hottubworks.com/SpaParts/PumpsCirculation.php">circulation pump</a> and having it pull or flow through the filter would help keep the water looking clearer. You would need to clean your filter more ofter if you choose this route. You would need to "T" off before the suction side of pump and "T" back in before the heater. The following two Balboa systems would work for you.<br /> The <a href="http://www.hottubworks.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=action&#38;key=B54218-Z">VS510 spa pack</a> is used for twin pumps and a blower, or 3 pumps.<br /> The <a href="http://www.hottubworks.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=action&#38;key=B54220-Z">VS501 spa pack</a> is used for pumps or a pump and blower.<br /> Both systems can operate the above plus, circulation pump, ozone, stereo, aux panel, and a 5.5kW heater. If you choose one of these Balboa packs you would need to go with the <a href="http://www.hottubworks.com/part-1-P101IM1524-item-hottub-circulation-pump.php">Iron Might circulation pump</a>. </p> http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/topic/heater-thermal-cut-off#post-298 Mon, 12 Oct 2009 11:35:08 +0000 mwbadhabit 298@http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/ <p>Your getting a low flow of water through the heater.<br /> Chances are you have a circulation pump thats not pumping enough water. The inlet you spoke of -should actually be the heater return line as the intake goes through the filters. So.. if your not getting a steady flow of water from that return line -- your circ pump is most likely dead or at least lazy. It should be moving one gallon every 30 seconds,andy less and the high limit could trip. </p> http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/topic/best-replacement-control-pack#post-297 Fri, 09 Oct 2009 16:31:42 +0000 ljtheisenjr 297@http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/ <p>'So my questions are: how can I force more water through the filter skimmer and what would be the best way to go on a control pack?'</p> <p>No help or comments out there? </p> http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/topic/jacuzzi-j-335-heat-sensor#post-295 Thu, 08 Oct 2009 12:02:54 +0000 Mary 295@http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/ <p>I believe you are referring to the <a href="http://www.hottubworks.com/SpaParts/HeaterSensors.php">spa temperature sensor</a>. The wire for the sensor should be in a flex pipe. The flex pipe just butts up to the back of the temp sensor. You should be able to pull that flex pipe back, it may be held on only by the foam insulation and not glued to the sensor nut. Once you pull back the flex you should expose the back side of the sensor. There will be a nut holding the sensor to the wall of the spa. The front of the sensor will either be located in the filter bucket or in the footwell area on the side of the wall. </p> http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/topic/best-replacement-control-pack#post-294 Sun, 04 Oct 2009 20:51:11 +0000 ljtheisenjr 294@http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/ <p>I have a 2004 Viking II spa. Last winter (Michigan) the controls started acting up. The heater seemed like it was on all the time. No matter what you set the temp to it was 110 deg. It got to the point I just drained the spa and it has been empty for the past year. Just before that I had to put a new bearing in the pump motor. I would like to do a complete control pack and also upgrade to a second circulation pump and a new ozonator. The spa has a 2 speed motor but it still uses too much power in the winter and I think the additional lower powered circulator would be more economical (my electric bill went down ~$75 a month after I turned it off.) Also, the filtration does not seem to do well. The spa has 2 floor water intakes besides the filter skimmer. So my questions are: how can I force more water through the filter skimmer and what would be the best way to go on a control pack? </p> http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/topic/jacuzzi-j-335-heat-sensor#post-293 Sat, 03 Oct 2009 08:30:13 +0000 LOUISR 293@http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/ <p>I need to know how to replace the hi-limit/freeze sensor. If I unhook this my spa runs fine but no heat is working. If I plug in this sensor my spa shuts down. The wire runs into a plastic pipe which goes into the insultion on right side of tub. How do I replace and where is sensor located? </p> http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/topic/thermal-cut-off#post-292 Fri, 02 Oct 2009 10:05:01 +0000 cyberxxxaos 292@http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/ <p>Thanks for the reply Mary. I ended up looking at the Circulation pump because I could not see water coming out of the return line. After unwiring the spa, moving the heater, clamping hoses I got to the pump. The last owner had a lot of plant debris blocking the impeller but there was a massive calcium buildup. Pump is clean and calcium free now and the spa is running smooth. Later this month I am going to run spa purge to clean out the system so I can do the last fresh fill for the winter. Thank you again for the advice. </p> http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/topic/too-much-baqua-spa-sanitizer#post-291 Wed, 30 Sep 2009 10:09:05 +0000 Mary 291@http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/ <p>Unfortunately I would recommend that you drain and start over. This is because if you have too much Baqua Spa in your spa it can cause damage to other components. For instance, it can harm your <a href="http://www.hottubworks.com/SpaParts/PumpParts.php">spa pump seal</a> or cause a calcium build up on the <a href="http://www.hottubworks.com/SpaParts/HeaterElements.php">spa heating element</a> damaging it. </p> http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/topic/too-much-baqua-spa-sanitizer#post-290 Wed, 30 Sep 2009 07:52:15 +0000 icewoz 290@http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/ <p>I have a hard time reading those Baqua Spa test strips, and it appeared that the sanitizer was too low, so I added some, and now I have mildly cloudy water.</p> <p>I took a sample to my dealer who is the one that confirmed that there was too much sanitizer in it. He said not to add any for at least a month, and I'd probably have to drain the water. I really don't want to do that, I only had fresh water in there for a week before this occurred. </p> http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/topic/no-heat-1#post-288 Mon, 28 Sep 2009 13:28:21 +0000 Mary 288@http://www.hottubworks.com/spa-repair-forum/ <p>It is fairly easy to remove a <a href="http://www.hottubworks.com/SpaParts/HeaterElements.php">spa heater element</a> if you have that type of heater. You can e-mail me the pictures at <a href="mailto:mary@hottubworks.com.">mary@hottubworks.com.</a> I can then let you know how to remove the element. </p>