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Posts Tagged ‘Hot Tub Parts’

How to Buy Spa & Hot Tub Parts

April 22nd, 2013 by

 

Hot Tub parts for DIY spa repair
If you are a Do It Yourself type of spa owner, (and most of our customers are) – you’ve probably seen our huge selection of parts for spa and hot tubs.

Spa Parts are my favorite category of spa stuff that we sell, probably because it’s a bit more challenging to know the intricacies of spa parts. We found out early that to sell spa parts, you have to have people in the call center that understand such things. Our tech support staff actually know how to repair spas and hot tubs.

Spa and Hot Tub parts are something we understand very well at Hot Tub Works. Our staff is trained to help you select the proper spa part, and our inventory investment means that we likely have the part you need, when you need it – often shipping the same day.

 

How to Order Spa Parts

Spa and Hot Tub replacement parts

On Hottubworks.com, we have designed a logical spa parts storefront. We don’t ask you to search by sku, or p/n. Instead, we have broken down our spa parts into 12 logical categories, shown right. These spa part categories represent different systems of interconnected equipment or parts – so you can find what you need fast.

Another way we made parts buying simpler was to throw out the schematic! They can’t be displayed clearly anyway, and with thousands of parts to list, it gets real confusing, real fast.

Instead, what we have are pages of similar parts, with thumbnail images – to quickly spot the correct replacement part for your spa or hot tub. We have 37 pressure switches for instance, all listed on one simple page, with detailed descriptions, measurements and an image that you can enlarge to see more clearly.

Most web users are very visual, and using high quality images in our parts department helps our visitors to feel confident that they’ve chosen the right part. This saves us both money and hassle, in shipping parts back and forth.

Other spa parts websites have black and white parts images that look like they were taken in the 19th century! Instead, we decided to do something different, and 5 years ago, launched a parts image improvement program; completed in early 2012.

Some of the other guys have out of date parts databases, selling items that have been obsolete for 10 years. They can’t get the part, but yet they take the order as though they can. A week later, you find out that the part is no longer made, and without a substitute available.

Instead, We continue to add to our spa parts selection every year, as new spas and new spa products are introduced and clean up the database of NLA (No Longer Available) and OBS (Obsolete) spa and hot tub parts. And, when there is a generic replacement, or a similar substitute, we code that into the database, so you know what the options are. And, our website never displays obsolete or unavailable spa parts.

Spa Parts Technical Support

tech-support for spa and hot tub repairOur spa and hot tub technical support staff can often help you identify the correct spa part, or verify that your troubleshooting process was logical and correct. We can’t guarantee that the spa or hot tub part you are ordering is the one that you need – we’d have to come to your house and perform a spa diagnostic to be sure!

We don’t make house calls, but you can call us anytime to speak with one of our spa techs about your symptoms, diagnosis, and the parts or supplies needed to make a successful spa repair.

I hope you like our Spa Parts Department – we’ve spent a lot of time designing the most user-friendly and complete online spa parts catalog.

- Jack

 

Wind Powered Hot Tubs

June 13th, 2011 by

Wind Powered Hot Tub Makes Us Ponder.

A wind powered hot tub causes me to think that a future of hot tubs could be more than it’s now. We have been stuck for years trying make the current method of operation less costly, but this approach is a whole new angle.

Ross Stevens writes that his “general approach to design is to find materials/objects that have concluded their first lives.” He combines his environmental sensibilities with his epicurean love of a long hot shower by building what he calls “Sustainable Decadence”- a wind-powered hot tub and spa made out of scrap.

Ross writes: “I wanted to challenge the assumption that sustainable means having less. (I really love long showers). I believe we should try to keep many of the pleasures of life but just reconnect them to local sustainable energy sources. I designed this primarily to change my associations with our very windy weather which can be rather oppressive (psychology experiment). By harnessing the wind I now think of the pool getting warmer when I hear and see the trees bend, which creates a positive feeling. This sense of reconnection with our site also creates more interest in the prevailing weather conditions and life outside the home”.

My general approach to design is to find materials/objects that have concluded there first lives. This takes some of the financial and ecological responsibility away leaving me more open to play with ideas and try things I am unsure of. The hard part is cohesively combining the diverse pieces into an overall design. In some ways this creates a more difficult design process than buying the obvious and correct new components but the reward is often a more distinct and less obvious answer. The wind turbine blades are made out of one piece of redundant water pipe (obtained for 12 bottles of beer) cut to make two blades with a helical edge that tapers to the top giving it great strength.

The technical description of the blade design is a savonious rotor which is a very old wind gathering mechanism often made out of a cut in half 44 gallon drum. The blades then drive an ancient (1940′s at least) reused tractor gearbox that increases the rotation speed (4:1 ratio) that in turn drives a reused washing machine motor (brushless DC ‘smart drive) .

“In a previous life, I was the industrial designer of this washing machine”. In theory this can produce up to 600watts of energy.  The spa is made from reused 8 inch thick insulated panels (polystyrene and steel ) from a cool storage [a walk-in fridge]. An insulated door left over from the container house slides across to create a highly thermally efficient space meaning the amount of heating is greatly reduced.

It is a classic issue on TreeHugger: does being green mean that you have to give up the pleasures of life and become a sort of hair-shirt environmentalist taking navy showers? Ross shows that we can have our cake and eat it too; that we can still enjoy ourselves if we do it sustainably and creatively, although clearly being handy with a welding torch helps.

The term Sustainable Decadence resonates: living ethically and sustainably can still be comfortable and fun.

hot-tubs-wind

Testing Hot Tub and Spa Sensors

April 15th, 2011 by
Balboa Spa Parts Spa Sensor, Balboa M7, LE, Valu Heaters, Acts as high-Limit or Temperature, 12 inches long

How to Test Spa Sensors for Continuity

With your electrical test meter set to 100k ohms, test the green and black wires for continuity.

Depending on the temperature it will give you a value. It is based on a 10k ohm resister. At 77 degrees it will read 10k ohms. As the temperature rises it will have a lower resistance and as the temperature lowers it will have a higher resistance.

Generally, all of the spa sensors will read 10-12k at 70 to 80F for resistance. If your readings are much less, this can indicate a break in the “Continuous” circuit, power not flowing through properly.

hottubworks.com is helping our customers’ save money

March 28th, 2011 by

spa-cartridge

Here at hottubworks – we want to help our customers’ save money any way we can. One way we do this is by suggesting less expensive alternatives to maintain your hot tub.

For example; Replacement Spa Filters can be expensive. Especially when you feel stuck buying an OEM filter. Many spa manufactures’ tell their new spa owners that they must buy the OEM filter. Big secret… this is not the case and there is a cheaper way!

 

I was speaking to a new customer today who has been using the Eco-Pur filtration system (This is a two part spa filter system which can be very expensive). I suggested she use a one piece replacement cartridge filter instead of the two piece Eco-Pur and purchase a mineral cartridge like Nature2 separately, which can be placed inside of the one piece substitute . This combination will do the same thing as the Eco-Pur and save her lots of money! She was so excited.

We can sell you the OEM filter cartridge if you prefer, or if you are looking to save up to 50%, consider a quality replacement spa filter. They are constructed the same, with the same weight and density of fabric,  just without the designer name!

Call any of us here in customer service for suggestions on how you can save money! We love to help!

Lietta!

Identify Your Spa Part or Hot Tub Part

March 24th, 2011 by

spa pumps and motors

 

One of the hardest things about selling spa parts for the spa industry is that there are 1,000s upon 1,000s of spa parts from all kinds of different manufacturers. Because of this, it has been very difficult to have all of those parts listed on our site.

In most circumstances, however, we can get you the spa part you need, even when you can’t find it on our website, or even on any website.For example. most Hot Springs, Sundance, Jacuzzi, and Balboa parts aren’t listed on our site but we have extensive catalogs and databases we can use to locate these parts for you.

Another place on our site that doesn’t always have every part listed is the Spa Jet section. Most jets come in a variety of colors and textures. Because of that we don’t have the ability to have all of these jets on our site but if you happen to be in this section and find a jet that looks similar to yours but perhaps isn’t the right color don’t hesitate to call in or send us an email. Most likely we will have the jet that you need available.

We can even obtain parts officially de-listed as Obsolete, when stock still exists in distribution. Many times, a comparable part used and made by a different manufacturer may work for older, de-listed and obsolete spa parts.

And then there are just those hot tub parts that are from smaller manufacturers, from very old spas or maybe you just don’t know where to look. The best thing to do in those situations is to email us a picture along with the measurements and any numbers that happen to be listed on the part. From there our experienced technicians and staff should be able to match the part for you.

So again – if you’re looking for a hot tub part, no matter how rare, or difficult it is to find – we are here to help you find the correct spa parts – fast!

HOT-TUB-PARTS

NEC Exempts Hot Tubs and Spas From Requirement

March 23rd, 2011 by

hot-tubs-nec-codesBy Rebecca Robledo | 3.23.2011

The National Electrical Code has been temporarily changed to exempt portable spas from bonding requirements.

In 2008, the National Fire Protection Association added language requiring that pools and spas be connected to a bonding grid under the deck to prevent shock hazards. The mandate didn’t differentiate portable hot tubs from inground spas or pools.

“It would have meant that any portable spa would require an equipotential bonding grid underneath it, and anytime you’d move the spa, you’d have to move the installation as well,” said Carvin DiGiovanni, senior director, technical and standards at the Association of Pool & Spa Professionals. “Equipotential bonding may serve a purpose, but it doesn’t apply to portable spas.”

Manufacturers and retailers alike called the mandate prohibitively expensive and unnecessary. For homeowners to tear out portions of the deck and install a bonding grid could cost more than the hot tub itself, they said. Furthermore, currently the units must meet UL and ANSI/APSP standards, making a bonding grid redundant. And, finally, when portable spas are installed above ground, it’s nearly impossible to experience a shock from the deck, they said, because a bather would not be on the deck and in the water at the same time.

“In [an inground] swimming pool, you can be in the water, then crawl out on the deck surrounding it, and if the deck or water is electrified you could get shocked,” said Larry Nicholson, senior electronic engineer at Watkins Manufacturing in Vista, Calif. “If you’re stepping out of an above-ground spa, you won’t have one leg in the water and the other touching the deck,” added Nicholson, who helped draft the argument to alter the requirement.

Industry officials tried to enact a change in time for the 2011 code writing, but met with resistance from the NFPA. APSP then submitted a request for a tentative interim amendment (TIA), which is essentially a temporary addendum to the body of the code that had already passed. It automatically goes up for reconsideration during the next code-writing cycle.

Bonding wires and grids no longer will be needed on portable spas in states and localities adopting the 2011 NEC. Those still enforcing  the 2008 language, however, may still require the grids. In those areas, professionals may try to show local building officials a copy of the TIA, found here, to try getting a waiver.

To push a TIA through, those requesting it must prove that the proposed change has technical merit and addresses a potential safety risk posed by the code language. The first committees hearing the proposal agreed that the change had technical merit, but didn’t believe it was an emergency. APSP appealed the decision, submitting that it did potentially put consumers at risk.

“People were having to tear up their whole patio and repour the concrete, and it was costing more to do that than to actually purchase the spa,” Nicholson said. “[The requirement] was forcing people to say, ‘You know what? I’m just not going to get a permit.’ I’ve seen installations where the electrical job was absolutely atrocious, and it was because the homeowner was doing it on their own and shortcutting things.”

A higher committee overturned the original decision.

The NEC is revised every three years, at which point all TIAs are automatically put up for reconsideration and public comment so that, if approved, it is adapted in the body of the code. The next NEC comes out in 2014.

It seems certain that at this next meeting, the NEC will accept the amendments as presented by the APSP.

Thanks;

Jerry

Installing a Spa or Hot Tub Ozone Injector

March 18th, 2011 by

One of the greatest items to ever come out for a hot tub has to be a spa ozonator. They have the ability to kill the majority of the bacteria in the water as well as significantly reduce the amount of other chemicals that have to be used in the water. The only problem is that it is very difficult to disperse the O3 gas into the system if you aren’t pre plumbed for ozone.

We were getting so many calls for this that we actually built a spa ozone injector kit that will allow the ozone to be injected into the water in a way that is even more effective than if your spa was actually pre plumbed for ozone. If you have 1.5 plumbing you would use part # HTW-OIM15 and if you have 2 inch plumbing you would use part # HTW-OIM2.

To install the spa injector kit, locate a length of pipe AFTER the filter and heater where you install the manifold in an upright position, as shown below. It measures approximately 15″ long and 5″ tall, so you need a clear section of pipe that’s around 16″ that you can cut into. In cases where there is no room, you may have to reroute the return line slightly, to create the space needed for the ozone manifold.ozone-injection-manifold

After locating a suitable location, all you do is cut the ozone venturi manifold (shown above) into your plumbing with a hacksaw. The pipe that is cut out should be about 3″ shorter than the overall length of the manifold, so the pipe will slip into both ends of the manifold, 1.5″ on each side.

Use pipe cleaner or primer and then glue the manifold in place with fresh PVC glue. Connect your new spa ozonator hose to the injector and you’re ready to go. The Ozonator unit should be mounted somewhere nearby, in reach of the ozone hose.

I get calls all the time where people are asking for an ozonator and they don’t even realize that it has to be pre plumbed and you could hear the defeat in their voice when I ask. But then when I tell them we have a device that will allow them to use the ozonator you could hear them perk up again. It’s a good feeling to know that we could help people find what they are looking for when they don’t even know they needed it.

So if you ever have any questions about ozone or the different ozone systems or injection manifolds that we have available – don’t hesitate to call, we at www.hottubworks.com are here to help you out.

~ Nicholas

 

Titanium Heater Elements and Ozone Seals

March 11th, 2011 by

Some spa and hot tub manufacturers are offering Ozone generators and/or Salt Water systems to sanitize the water. Although beneficial to water quality, salt and ozone can be detrimental to equipment like standard heater elements and standard pump seals.

To combat this I suggest you use Titanium heater elements and Salt/Ozone pump seals; which are more resistant than the standard versions to the corrosive effects of ozone and salt.

Flothru Heater Element

These heater elements are more expensive, being made from Titanium and all… but if you’re replacing a standard element every 1-2 years, there can be a quick payback in a few years. The ozone grade pump shaft seals are only a few dollars more than standard grade.

So, if your spa heating element look deteriorated and corroded, and you use salt and/or ozone to sanitize, my recommendation is to replace with a version that can withstand the salts in the water.

If your shaft seal is failing, and you use ozone in the water, look for a softening and puckering of the rubber portions of the shaft seal, or possibly corrosion on the spring portion.

Testing Spa or Hot Tub Heater Elements

March 3rd, 2011 by

Spa Heater Element testing

 

Good heaters elements between 4.0 and 5.5kw should have the following results:

* 9-12 ohms of resistance
* good continuity
* draw 15-25 amps at 240v

You test the element by using an Ohm meter, or any multi-meter will work also. Just place it on Ohms, at 1000, and place your test leads on each of the terminals (power to spa heater should be off). As mentioned above,  a measurement of 9-12 Ohms of resistance usually indicates a good element.

To test for voltage, use an Amp meter, and use your test leads to measure the amp draw for the element. Excessive amp draw indicates a bad element, and no amp draw indicates that no power is reaching the terminals.

Poor spa chemistry can harm your spa heater elements, as can operating without water flowing over the element (which the pressure switch is designed to protect against).