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Archive for the ‘Spa Pumps’ Category

The Winterized Spa – How to Close a Spa for Winter

December 12th, 2013 by

hot-tub-in-winter

There comes a time for many hot tub lovers in the north, when they need to ask the question – close the spa for the winter, or keep it operating?

If you think you’ll use the spa occasionally, even if it’s only a few times per month, I would suggest that you keep it open. But, if no one is using it, or worse – maintaining it. You may want to winterize the spa.

For many spa owners, it’s the fear of extended power outages that will warrant emptying the spa. Heated and covered, a hot spa should be able to resist freeze damage for 24 hours, but beyond that you could face  expensive repairs to plumbing and equipment.

How to Winterize an Above Ground Spa in 4 Steps

step1 to winterize a spa or hot tub Step One: Remove the spa filter cartridge, and clean it thoroughly with spa filter cleaner like Filter Fresh, and allow it to dry for winter storage. Next, apply a spa purge product like Jet Clean, to clean biofilm and bacteria from the pipes, which will continue to grow in the moist interior of your pipes, unless cleaned before you drain the spa. Don’t skip this step, or you may have funk and gunk in your pipes when you start up the spa again.

 

step2 for spa and hot tub winterizingStep Two: Now it’s time to drain the spa. Shut off power to the spa, and switch the heater off. Find your drain spigot and allow the spa to drain completely, through a hose, so the water drains away from the spa. When almost empty, turn on power again, so you can turn on the air blower (if you have one), and let it run until no more droplets spray out the jets. Use a sponge or shop vac to get every last drop from the bottom of the spa. If you have air jets in the seat or floor, lay a towel over them to absorb water mist as it sprays out.

 

step3 to winterize a hot tubStep Three: Use a powerful shop vac, to suck and blow air through the system. Place a sheet of plastic over a group of spa jets and use shop vac suction on one of the group’s jets. The plastic will suck to the other jets, so you can pull water out of one jet. Repeat until all jets are vacuumed. Switch the vac to a blower, and blow air through all the jets. Now blow air through the skimmer and spa drain. Under the spa, open all unions (don’t lose the o-rings), and use the shop vac to blow and suck air in both directions. Remove the drain plugs on the pump(s), and filter.

 

step4 in winterization of a spaStep Four: Spa covers perform an important function during winter, keeping any rain and snow melt from getting inside the spa. Over winter, some areas can receive two feet of precipitation, and it’s important that this doesn’t get into the spa. If your spa cover is a leaker, and in bad shape, cover it with plywood cut to shape, and then wrap it tightly with a sturdy tarp that will repel water. If your spa cover is in good shape, use a conditioner like our Spa Cover Cleaner, to protect it from winter weather. Use a Spa Cover Cap for the best spa cover protection.

 

Other Thoughts on Winterizing a Portable Spa

  1. Consult your owner’s manual, or find it online, to read specific tips for winterizing your particular spa.
  2. Using non-toxic antifreeze is discouraged, but if you must, refill and drain the spa before use.
  3. Draining a wooden hot tub is discouraged, but if you must, leave a foot of water, to resist shrinkage.
  4. Be sure to shut off power at the breaker, so there’s no chance that the pumps will run without water.
  5. If you have doubts and worry, consider calling a spa service company to winterize your spa.
  6. Inground spas require different procedures, not covered here.

 

- Jack

 

 

How to Replace a Spa Pump Shaft Seal

May 28th, 2013 by

spa-shaft-seal-replacementSpa pump motor shaft seals – they are meant to keep the water from leaking along the shaft of the pump motor, behind the impeller. When a shaft seal fails, as they do from time to time, you will notice water dripping along the backside of the volute (where the shaft enters the impeller housing), running down and dripping off the bottom of the pump.

A leaking shaft seal can easily be confused with a failed volute (impeller housing) o-ring, or with a leaking union or plumbing fitting on top of the pump. In fact, many leaks around the pump will end up running down – and dripping off the bottom.

 

SHAFT-SEALS-LEAK-HEREIs Your Shaft Seal Leaking?

To be sure that you have a leaking shaft seal, inspect all areas around the pump closely (with a flash light and reading glasses, if necessary). If you have an open volute (where you can see the motor shaft), a leaking shaft seal will leak where the shaft enters the volute, as shown in the image on the right.

Looking close-up in the area indicated, you will usually see a thin, running stream of water, although in some cases, it could be spraying water in all directions.

Spa pumps with closed volutes (where you can’t see the motor shaft), will be leaking out of a drain hole, in the bottom of the seal plate, or the point where the motor joins the “wet end” of the spa pump.

Identifying a Spa Pump Shaft Seal

Not all spa pumps use the same shaft seal, and seals used for hot tub pumps are usually of a higher grade rubber (Viton or Silicone Carbide), than those used in swimming pool pumps. These materials are more resistant to chemical changes, and if you use a spa ozonator, these materials won’t deteriorate like a shaft seal made with a Buna type synthetic rubber.

The easiest way to order the correct shaft seal, is to order by make and model of the pump. This may not be so clearly marked on many pumps however. If you still have documentation on the spa purchase, an owner’s manual should list the shaft seal, and it’s manufacturer’s part number.

The next easiest way to find out which shaft seal is used on your pump is to remove the pump from beneath the spa (shut off power and water valves first), and disassemble the motor from the wet end, so that the shaft seal can be measured and identified.

Disassembly of the Wet End

Motors can be removed from a spa without too much work. First make sure that the power is shut off on the main breaker. Place tape over the breaker to prevent others from flipping it back on while you work. Close the valves both sides of the pump to hold back the water in the spa, otherwise, you’ll need to drain the spa first before pump removal.

Unscrew the unions on the pipes that come in and out of the pump (there will be some water spillage). Disconnect the bare copper bonding wire from the bonding lug. Remove the power cord from the control box. With the motor removed, and in a location that you can work on it (without stooping or laying on your stomach), loosen the bolts that secure the front plate to the volute.

With the front plate removed, you should be looking at the impeller. Some spa pumps have an impeller shroud, or diverter that will need to be removed first. Remove the impeller by holding the shaft firmly in place, while spinning the impeller in a counter-clockwise direction. For open volutes, a small pair of vice grips can be used to hold the shaft firmly so it won’t turn as the impeller is threaded off of the shaft.

For closed volutes, the trick is to hold the shaft in one location at the rear of the motor. For motors with a removal end cover, a 7/16 wrench can be used on the rear of the shaft. Others have a small shaft cap that can be removed, dead center of the rear end bell of the motor. The shaft is slotted to accept a large flat head screwdriver, used to hold the shaft stationary.

After removing the impeller, you should see your shaft seal, and you can now identify it by type and size.

Measuring your Spa Shaft seal

Spa shaft seals come in two pieces, a round ceramic disk, and the other half, with the spring. One piece will be pressed into the seal plate of the pump, and the other half fits onto the impeller. As the two halves of the shaft seal are drawn close together during impeller rotation, the spring is compressed, and a good “seal” is made. The seal doesn’t actually touch the shaft, if it did, it would burn up in just seconds of 3400 RPM of the motor shaft. Nonetheless, you will notice that many shaft seals mention the shaft diameter of the motor that they fit.

SHAFT-SEAL-MEASUREMENTS

Remove both pieces of your shaft seal from the pump. The mating ring may require a small flathead screwdriver to pry it out, as it is pressed into place. Be sure to also remove the rubber mating ring, if present.

The other half of the seal, with the spring, can be worked off gently with your fingers. Once removed, take the diameter and height measurements, as shown left.

SHAFT-SEAL HEAD TYPES

 

The other distinction between shaft seals is the type of head that the “spring half” of the seal is either Type A, or Type B. Most spa pumps with Type B seal heads will be using a #1000 seal, but check the other measurements of the seal to be sure. Another measurement, if you want to be really sure, is to measure the diameter of the shaft. Calipers would be most accurate, or you can use a rigid measuring tape, and eyeball it very closely.

Spa Pump Shaft Seal Chart

With this information on the shaft seal head type and the diameter measurements, and perhaps the shaft measurement, you can now refer to this handy spa pump shaft seal chart, to confidently figure out the type of replacement shaft seal needed, or the seal number, shown in the left hand column. Most common are the shaft seals #100, 200, 201 and 1000, but your spa pump could use a different one. Measure to be sure, and call us if you have any questions.

spa-pump-shaft-seal-chart

NOTE:  The Seal Type numbers in the left column, (i.e. PS-100) are commonly accepted universal seal part numbers, which will correspond in size and type, to the manufacturer’s part number. Again, if you have any questions or concerns with proper shaft seal identification, call us for help.

Installing a new shaft seal

The biggest mistake people make when installing a new shaft seal is installing the seal or the mating ring upside down. As you remove the two halves of the seal, take note of it’s orientation. If this bit of information is not available, take note of how the seal is packed in the box – usually, this is the correct position. Otherwise, know that the ceramic part of the mating ring is meant to contact the hard plastic side of the seal.

When installing Type B seals into the seal plate, use a bit of silicone around the stainless steel cup as you press fit the seal into the plate. Use a very large socket, or a 1″ PVC coupling as a setting tool, to lightly tamp the seal cup fully in place.

When installing Type A seals over the impeller, put the soft rubber side toward the impeller, and the hard plastic side toward the ceramic face of the mating ring.

After installing both seal halves, thread the impeller back on fully, and reassemble the wet end (with no leftover parts!). Reposition the pump and connect the unions, making sure the o-rings are in place. Reconnect the bonding wire and the power cord. If your pump was mounted onto a skid, or base, resecure the pump to reduce vibration and movement.

Fill the spa or open the valves to allow the pump to fill with water. Turn on the circuit breaker and test the pump. If water does not begin to flow immediately, you probably have an air lock in the pump or spa pak. Shut off the pump, and loosen the union on top of the pump just slightly, to allow air to be pushed out, until water begins to flow and spill. Quickly tighten up the union and test the pump again.

PREVENTING DAMAGE TO SHAFT SEALS

  • Never run the pump dry, or without water flowing through it.
  • Maintain your water level in the spa, to prevent air being sucked in.
  • Use Viton shaft seals if you use a spa ozonator.
  • Maintain proper water balance and sanitizer levels.

 

Happy Hot Tubbin’

Daniel Lara
Hot Tub Works

 

Replacing a Spa Pak – a How To

May 20th, 2013 by

replacement spa packsA Spa Pack is an integrated unit that contains the spa pump, heater, blower and controls. On average, a spa pack will last around 10 years, before one or more components begins to fail, or give you regular trouble.

Replacing your Spa Pak can be a quick and simple affair. In the worst case scenario, it may involve some light plumbing and wiring, and replacement of the top-side spa control, if purchased with your spa pack.

 

Selecting the Right Spa Pack

Digital or Air System?

spa-side-control

You probably have a “spa-side control”, a small control panel “top-side”, that you use to operate the spa from inside the tub. If you have a digital display, you have a digital control. If your spa-side control has a dial for temperature, and air buttons with air hoses running to the control box – this indicates that your spa has an air system control. Since they are close in price, many spa owners may upgrade their new spa pack to a digital system.

Spa Pack or Spa Control?

Spa Packs are the complete kit and kaboodle – control box, heater, pump(s) and sometimes also a blower. Everything, really – with the exception of the spa filter or ozonator. The Spa Control is just the controller for the spa, although some newer controls also include a spa heater.

If your system is fairly new, and you are mainly having problems with the control, with the other equipment in good order, you can save some bucks and replace just the spa control. If the other equipment items are older than 7-8 years, you may want to consider replacing the entire spa pack, to avoid equipment failure in the near future.

Gathering Information

Before you can order a replacement spa pack, grab your reading glasses and a flashlight, and get up close and personal with the existing equipment. You’ll need to locate and write down the following bits of information, from the name plates on the control and pump.

  • Pumps: One pump or Two? Locate the Horsepower (HP) on the motor nameplate.
  • Heater size: Usually, residential spas are either 1.5kw or 5.5kw
  • Control Voltage: Incoming voltage is either 120 volts or 240 volts (or 115/230).
  • Blower – do you wish to replace the blower also?
  • Pipe Size: 1.5″ or 2″? 1.5″ PVC pipe has an outside diameter of 1-7/8″.
  • Inlet Direction: Is Control inlet on the left side or right side of the pump?

Ordering a New Spa Pack

If you’ve done it before, and you are confident of your selection, by all means place your spa pack order online. If our tech support staff can be of any help to you in purchasing the correct spa pack for your application, by all means, call us at 800-770-0292. We have spa experts standing by from 7 to 7 during the week, and 8 to 5 on weekends.

Spa packs are not cheap, but considering it’s the “engine” of your hot tub, a price of $600-$800 may not seem too severe. You’ll find our prices on spa packs to be among the best, and with a wide variety of brands to choose from. Shipping on spa packs is always fast and free.

Installing your New Spa Pack

1. Shut off the Power, at the main Circuit Breaker for the spa. Read the installation instructions.
2. Close the isolation valves to shut off water before and after the pump, or drain the spa.
3. Loosen the unions before and after the existing spa pack, and remove wire connections from the spa light, ozonator, stereo or other accessory equipment.

spa-pak-locationYour spa pack control and heater must be installed after the pump and before the filter (unless your spa filter cartridge is located in the skimmer well of the spa). Make sure that the pipes are connected to the correct in and out ports of the pump and the heater.

Line up your new spa pack, and determine the plumbing arrangement. In most cases, all of the plumbing fittings and pipe you will need are included, but in some situations, a trip to Home Depot may be in order to pick up a few fittings, or a fresh can of PVC glue and a can of primer or PVC pipe cleaner. blower-installation

Dry fit all of your plumbing together before gluing, to make sure that everything is lined up, and all pipes and fittings can be glued to their full depth. NOTE: A spa air blower is not glued onto the pipe. Fumes from PVC glue can be ignited by a blower, so instead, use a screw or clamp to secure an air blower onto PVC pipe, as shown right.

4. Position spa pack components and secure them to the base or skid.
5. Clean and glue the PVC joints. Use Teflon tape on threaded fittings.
6. Attach wire plugs from spa light or other accessory equipment into the labeled ports on the control box.

spa-wiringMaking the electrical connections is fairly straight forward, and safe – as long as the power is off. Tape the breaker in the “Off” position, to prevent someone from accidentally turning it back on.

Make the hard wire connections from the new spa pack to the wires from the main circuit breaker (which is still Off!). If you doubt your abilities, please contact a certified electrician to make these connections.

7. Fill the spa, and inspect for any leaks in the pipes or equipment (before it gets too full).
8. Install the new Spa-Side control, by mounting in place of the existing top-side controls. If your new control is much smaller than the old one, you can use a small saw or Dremel tool to cut small openings in the current control, and mount the new control right on top of the old control.
9. Turn on power to spa, and set the thermostat to the lowest setting.
10. Run the spa jet pump on high for several minutes to purge all air from system before turning up the thermostat and testing the heater.

And, your done! While the spa is heating up, take some time to read the owner’s manual operating instructions, and send in the warranty registration card.

Once again, if you have any concerns about spa pack selection, ordering or installation, our 100% free spa tech support personnel are here to help you – 78 hours per week!

Happy Hot Tubbin’

Daniel Lara
Hot Tub Works

 

Related Information:

Installing your New Equipment Pack
Installing a Spa Equipment Pack (videos)

Hot Tub Pump Problems

April 25th, 2013 by

spa-pump-problems

 

Spa and Hot Tub Pumps. They provide the circulation for the spa filter and heater and give an extra boost when turning the spa jets on high. And when the spa pump ain’t happy, ain’t nobody happy – that’s because without water flow, there is no filtration, no sanitation and no heating.

Spa pumps need to operate every day to maintain clean and hot spa water – so when your hot tub pump has problems, it’s an emergency. If your spa cover is kept on, you may have 1 day before it cools off, and perhaps only a few days before bacteria and pathogens begin to thrive.

Shock the spa with your favorite spa shock when the sanitizer level gets low. You can continue using granular spa shock, or a spa floater with tablets, for several weeks, but if you go without filtration longer than a few weeks, you should consider draining the spa after your pump troubles are fixed.

Some spas have two pumps, one is the circulation pump and the other is the jet pump. If you have two pumps, chances are it’s one or the other – either your jets don’t work, or the spa circulation isn’t working. Spas and hot tubs with one pump usually have a 2-speed motor, operating on low speed most of the time, and on high speed when using the tub with the jets.

Spa Repairs can be Dangerous! Be sure to disconnect power. ONLY qualifed personnel should attempt spa repairs. Accidents can be fatal.

Spa Pump Trouble F.A.Q.

Here’s a simple way to troubleshoot your spa or hot tub pump. Hot Tub Blogs should do this more often – These are our most Frequently Asked Questions about spa pump repair.

Q: My Spa Pump is Dead – No Noise, No Action!

A: When you hit the switch or button, and you don’t hear your spa pump come on, there are a few things simple things you can try.

First, are other equipment items powered, are the indicator lights on? If not, the Circuit Breaker may be tripped. Second, the GFCI breaker may have tripped. Look for a red “TEST” button on an electrical outlet near your spa equipment. If the GFCI was tripped, but the spa still won’t come on, check the system Fuse in the spa pack panel. If you replace the Fuse and it pops again, you have an short in the wiring equipment of your spa.

Third, check your time clock or remote spa controller, if you have one, to make sure it is not over riding the switch you are using. Fourth – is a faulty switch you are using to turn on the spa pump. Air switch buttons are often used on older spas, and you may have a problem with the switch or the hose. Modern air switches are electronic, and you can test the power coming in and out of them, to determine if the switch itself is faulty.

Q: My Spa Pump is Not Pumping!

A: If your spa pump is coming on, but not pumping any water here’s some steps to troubleshoot.

First, have you just refilled your spa? If so, there is probably and Air Lock in the hot tub. In some spa systems, when you completely drain the spa, air gets trapped in the pipes and equipment. You need to bleed the air out and replace it with water before the pump can catch prime.spa-pump-wet-end

To bleed air our of your system, first look for a drain plug on the pump and filter. Place a small pan or cookie sheet underneath to catch any water. Slowly open the drain plugs until water begins to run out. If you don’t have drain plugs, you can slowly loosen the union on the pump (but don’t remove it, or the o-ring may pop out of place). Listen for escaping air, and then once the water begins to drip, you can tighten the union up again.

Second, if your tub is full, and still no water runs out, look for any closed valves before or after the pump. Third, is something blocking the lines? Look for something stuck in the skimmer or blocking the spa drain. Fourth, is the water level high enough? Low water will allow the skimmer to suck air, and cause the pump to lose prime. Fill spa to the middle of the skimmer opening.

Q: My Spa Pump Only Works on High Speed

A: First, rotate your timer clock and turn up thermostat to high to see if this resolves the problem.
Second, check the power at the low speed and high speed terminals, which should be either 110V or 220V, +/- 10%. Third, check the air switch button that you push to switch speeds. Check for voltage coming in an out of the switch, or for mechanical air switches, check that the device is not clogged with debris or insects, and that the air hose is in good shape and connected on both ends. Fourth, the mechanical switch in the back of the motor could be stuck in the high position, due to broken parts or insect infestation.

Q: My Spa Pump Only Works on Low Speed

A: When your 2-speed hot tub pump only works on low speed, and never kicks into high speed, there are four possible solutions to check.

First, if you are pushing an air switch button, check that the air hose is not crimped or disconnected. Newer, electronic air switches can be tested with a multi-meter, to see that power is passing through, on both sides of the switch. Second, If the pump was recently replaced or rewired, the wires could be reversed on the back of the motor.

Third, is the switch in the back of the motor, that changes to motor from low speed to high speed. With power off, manually operate the switch, looking for something loose, broken or misaligned. Insect or ant infestation could also prevent the switch from operating correctly. Fourth, is the contactor/relay that switches the pump speed. With power off, make sure that the connections are tight, and the terminals are not rusty or corroded.

Q: My Spa Pump is Humming, and Then the Breaker Trips

A: If your spa pump never actually turns on, it only makes a low noise, until the circuit breaker trips, check these things.

spa-pump-capacitor

Capacitor

First, would be the capacitor on the motor. This cylindrical “battery” provides extra starting power, and these can go bad after many years. You can test the capacitor, or simply replace it with an identical size. Second, Check the shaft for rotation. If you have an open volute, where you can see the shaft, use straight pliers to manually turn the shaft, to rule out a locked up motor, or something stuck in the pump impeller. Third, Check that input voltage is correct, either 110V or 220V, +/- 10%. Fourth, it is possible that the breaker itself is in need of replacement.

Q: My Spa Pump is On, but Barely Pumping

A: First, check the spa filter, it may need cleaning. Second, look for any obstructions in the skimmer or over the drain cover. Third, something could be clogging up the pump impeller, especially if a spa cover is not used, and lots of small debris has entered the hot tub. Fourth, an air leak, before the pump can cause this issue. Check the union in front of the pump, and look for any water leaks when the pump shuts off.

Q: My Spa Pump is Making Loud Noises

A: There are a few types of funny noises that a hot tub pump can make – none of them good.

First, if the noise is a screeching, high pitched whine, the motor bearings could be failing. Bearings can be replaced, or if the motor is very old (more than 5 years old), you may consider replacing the hot tub motor. Second, if the noise is a low pitched, grumbling noise, the pump could be starved for water. Check that the valve in front of the pump are open, and that nothing is clogged in the suction lines, including the spa filter. Third, a rattling noise – could be vibration that can be solved with a rubber pad beneath the pump. If something is broken inside the motor, it doesn’t take long (at 3400 rpm) for broken spa pump parts to be worn down to nothing. In this case, the noise would not last more than a few minutes.

Q: My Spa Pump is Leaking Water

Leaking Spa Pumps

A: First, and most probable, is that the shaft seal of the pump has failed. This is located behind the impeller, and would leak along the shaft, just behind the volute. Second, is the union on top of the pump. If water is dripping or spraying from where the union connects, the PVC threads may have shrunk (from running pump without water), or the threads may be loose and simply need to be tightened. Third, if either incoming or outgoing unions were loosened recently, the internal o-ring may have come out of place, and not be positioned properly. Fourth – is the o-ring that seals up the impeller housing, or volute. Dry-rotted, out of position, or possibly loose, along with loose screws around the face of the pump.

 

I hope that this FAQ of Hot Tub pump problems has been helpful to you. If your question was not answered here, feel free to post a comment below, or call our helpful spa tech support personnel at  800-770-0292.

Happy Hot Tubbin’

Daniel Lara
Hot Tub Works

 

Sundance Spa Pumps and Jacuzzi Pumps

June 3rd, 2011 by

Sundance Wet End

 

 

We are now offering a new line of wet-ends called the Piranha that have 8 mounting legs instead of the typical 4 leg style. This will allow you to clock the wet-end into 8 different positions including those 45 degree angles that Sundance and Jacuzzi brand spas used on their models for a number of years.

The wet end for this pump can be adjusted to all these positions, so you can more easily make a replacement to the volute of your spa pump. Reducing the number of 90′s is always a good idea for decreased resistance in your spa system.

Here’s the new offering of Sundance Spa Pumps

PirWE20

Complete Sundance Wet End for 4.0/ 2.0 Hp Pumps.
Contains: front and rear housing, 2.0 Hp impeller, o-ring, seal and screws.  For use on a 48 Frame Pump which Sundance used on 1998-2005.
Current Replacement Pump Wet End for these old part numbers: 6500-257, 6500-262, 6500-264, 6500-265, 6500-266, 6500-757, 6500-762, 6500-764, 6500-765, 6500-766, 6500-769, 6500-347, 6500-349.
Used on Sundance Spa Models: Altamar, Bahia, Calypso, Calypso II, Cameo, Certa, Chelsee, Hamilton, Hartford, Hawthorne, Majesta, Marin, Madison, Maxxus, Montego, Optima, Palermo, Telluride
Used on Jacuzzi Premium Spa Models: J-325, J-330, J-335, J-340, J-345, J-350, J-355, J-360, J-365, J-370, J-375, J-380, J-385

PirWE25

Complete Sundance Wet End for 4.2/ 2.5 Hp Pumps.
Contains: front and rear housing, 2.5 Hp impeller, o-ring, seal and screws.  For Use on a 48 Frame Pump which Sundance used on 1998-2005.
Current Replacement pump wet end for these old part numbers: 6500-254, 6500-257, 6500-260, 6500-261, 6500-262, 6500-263, 6500-264, 6500-265, 6500-268, 6500-754, 6500-757, 6500-760, 6500-761, 6500-762, 6500-764, 6500-765, 6500-768

Used on Sundance Spa Models from 1998-2005: Altamar, Austin, Bahia, Burlington, Calypso, Calypso I, Calypso II, Cameo, Camden, Capri, Caprio ST, Cayman, Certa, Corum, Cyprus, Hamilton, Hartford, Hawthorne, Madison, Marin, Majesta, Maxxus, Montego, Olympia, Optima, Palermo, Rio, Telluride.

Used on Jacuzzi Premium Spa Models: J-325, J-330, J-335, J-340, J-345, J-350, J-355, J-360, J-365, J-370, J-375, J-380, J-385

PirWE15

Complete Sundance Wet End for 1.5 Hp Pumps.
Contains: front and rear housing, 1.5 Hp impeller, o-ring, seal and screws. For use on a 48 Frame Pump which Sundance used on 1998-2005.
Current Replacement pump wet end for these old part numbers: 6500-122, 6500-135, 6500-259, 6500-258, 6500-293, 6500-759, 6500-758, 6500-793, 6500-345

BN50-15-PIR
6500-345, Sundance Spas Pump, 1.5 HP, 120 Volt 2 Speed. 1997-Present

Current Replacement for these old part numbers: 6500-122, 6500-135, 6500-259, 6500-258, 6500-293, 6500-758, 6500-759, 6500-793.
Used on Sundance Spa Models: Aspen, Bali, Cheyenne, Denali, Dover, Metro, Solo, Suntub, Tango, Tacoma, Vail

BN62-25-PIR
6500-341 & 6500-355, Sundance Spas, Jacuzzi Spas Pump. 2.5/4.2 HP Rated, 240 Volt, Replacement Pump for 1997-Present Sundance Spas and Jacuzzi Premium Spas.

Used to Replace: old part numbers: 6500-126, 6500-128, 6500-131, 6500-254, 6500-261, 6500-263, 6500-266, 6500-269, 6500-754, 6500-763, 6500-766, 6500-769
Used on SUndance Spa Models 1997-2011: Altamar, Bahia, Calypso, Calypso II, Cameo, Certa, Chelsee, Hamilton, Hartford, Hawthorne, Majesta, Marin, Madison, Maxxus, Montego, Optima, Palermo, Telluride
Used on Jacuzzi Premium Spa Models: J-325, J-330, J-335, J-340, J-345, J-350, J-355, J-360, J-365, J-370, J-375, J-380, J-385

Winterizing a Spa or Hot Tub

March 25th, 2011 by

How to winterize your spa or hot tub

Blow Out the Spa Pipes

If you plan on draining your spa or hot tub for the winter, be sure to use a wet / dry vac to suck out any residual water in the plumbing lines and equipment.

Water will expand about 9 times it size when it freezes and will easily crack plumbing fittings, manifolds, and spa pump wet-ends.

To remove water from spa or hot tub pipes, place the vacuum nozzle over the jets, suction fittings, filter plumbing, and equipment to quickly remove the access water and prevent a huge repair when Spring comes around. You can make special hose attachments by using various fittings, and duct tape, to make the best seal against skimmers, spa jets and pumps.

You can also use the wet dry vac as a blower, to blow out the spa pipes. Connect to your skimmer pipe to blow air through the spa pack. Turn on your spa blower while you are blowing out the hot tub pipes. Move the vac or blower, around to different parts of the spa, to try to get air into every possible area.

This is also important to prevent standing water from growing bacteria inside of the pipes. Keep blowing air through all of the spa jets, until all of the moisture has been blown out of the pipes and equipment.

For this reason, it is also recommended to use a Spa Purge product before draining the spa, to clear the pipes and equipment of biofilm bacteria. We have two excellent hot tub pipe cleaners – Rendezvous Spa Rinse or Leisure Time Jet Clean.

To complete your hot tub winterization, remove any drain plugs on the pump and filter and open the drain valve all the way. Get the last little bit of water out with a sponge and bucket.

Shut off the power to the spa, so the pumps don’t accidentally turn on while the hot tub is winterized.

Secure your spa cover for winter with Wind Straps if you have high winds. Use the Cover Cap, to protect hot tub covers from weather all winter long.

~ brian

Identify Your Spa Part or Hot Tub Part

March 24th, 2011 by

spa pumps and motors

 

One of the hardest things about selling spa parts for the spa industry is that there are 1,000s upon 1,000s of spa parts from all kinds of different manufacturers. Because of this, it has been very difficult to have all of those parts listed on our site.

In most circumstances, however, we can get you the spa part you need, even when you can’t find it on our website, or even on any website.For example. most Hot Springs, Sundance, Jacuzzi, and Balboa parts aren’t listed on our site but we have extensive catalogs and databases we can use to locate these parts for you.

Another place on our site that doesn’t always have every part listed is the Spa Jet section. Most jets come in a variety of colors and textures. Because of that we don’t have the ability to have all of these jets on our site but if you happen to be in this section and find a jet that looks similar to yours but perhaps isn’t the right color don’t hesitate to call in or send us an email. Most likely we will have the jet that you need available.

We can even obtain parts officially de-listed as Obsolete, when stock still exists in distribution. Many times, a comparable part used and made by a different manufacturer may work for older, de-listed and obsolete spa parts.

And then there are just those hot tub parts that are from smaller manufacturers, from very old spas or maybe you just don’t know where to look. The best thing to do in those situations is to email us a picture along with the measurements and any numbers that happen to be listed on the part. From there our experienced technicians and staff should be able to match the part for you.

So again – if you’re looking for a hot tub part, no matter how rare, or difficult it is to find – we are here to help you find the correct spa parts – fast!

HOT-TUB-PARTS

To All of You out There Thank You! If I Were There, I’d Hug Ya!

March 3rd, 2011 by

big-hug for our customers

I have been a customer service representative at Hot Tub Works for almost 5 years and I love what I do. However a good portion of the job is helping customers who have had a less than ideal situation (example: a damaged package delivered) and may be upset when calling in.

It is a wonderful feeling to offer a solution and bring the old fashioned “over the top” customer service into reality and turn a potentially bad experience into a good one for our customers.

Our honest desire to make your experience with Hot Tub Works enjoyable from beginning to end usually surprises people and I absolutely love it when they call in or email us about their experience in genuine “over the top” customer service.

To all of you out there thank you! If I were there, I’d hug ya!

Lietta

Spa Pump Crazy

September 20th, 2010 by

spa-pumpsCrazy about Spa Pumps!

Five years ago we added spa pumps to the site.  It’s been one of those journeys that has come very slowly, not a silver bullet anywhere to be found. We started with the best brands available, which was not an easy path, as many of the suppliers have been buying each other out.

When we started to stock spa pumps, we realized we need to test every one because it was apparent our suppliers did not, so we built a water test station, to make 100% sure we had great product before the client ever received their spa pump.

We hired a friend and former colleague from the Sundance Spas engineering department to build our work stations and create the testing protocol. It was one of those projects that seemed not to make any sense on paper, yet I knew we had to invest in, to be the best source online for spa pumps.

Sales have always been good, yet it’s taken a lot of energy with very little profit, since spa pumps are heavy to ship and the warranty costs seem to never get covered by the manufacturer. We have always been liberal with our return policy as if we were the buyers ourselves. The spa pumps just always seemed to be needing more work. So, one more time, a couple of All-Stars here jumped in and got deep into the project.

Jim and Brian spent months researching, studying everything they could to figure out what we needed for our clients, how to source correctly, the engineering of spa pumps. They went further, studying how to create the best value for our clients, and how to make it easy to find the right spa pump on our website.  These two, as always did us proud and our clients right by creating the most complete offering of spa pumps at the best prices, and a method so clients can get through the challenge of finding what they need.

They even made spa pump videos.

My hat is off to these guys who come to work everyday and care about what they do for us and for you. It’s an inspiring group.

- Jerry