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Archive for the ‘Parts’ Category

Spa Parts Terminology

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hot tub cutaway showing internal hot tub spa parts

Glossary of Spa and Hot Tub Parts Terms! At Hot Tub Works, we are surrounded by spa and hot tub parts. My desk is home to various pool parts, brought in from the warehouse, or dropped off by sales reps. We have several display boards on the walls with dozens of types of spa jets, air parts, and my favorite board of heater parts. In the break rooms and training rooms you’d find more displays of hot tub parts and equipment, all carefully mounted and labeled.

We talk to customers all day long about their spas and hot tubs, so long ago Hot Tub Works founders committed to creating deep product knowledge. In so many ways, we train on the language of spas and hot tubs, and the terms to describe the hundreds of individual parts used to build them.

Today’s post is the terminology of spa and hot tub parts, to help you better identify and discuss, all of the various components on your spa and hot tub equipment. Want to add a term to our spa parts glossary? Leave me a comment below with your whatcha-ma-callit!


Air Buttons:

Air Buttons are used spa-side on an air-control systems or pneumatic controls, to activate equipment such as pumps, lights, blower. Pushing the Air Button will send a pulse of pressurized air through an air hose, to activate an Air Switch.


Air Injectors:

Air Injectors are found on the floor or seats of spas and hot tubs to distribute air from a air blower motor. Air Injectors have a PVC connection on the inlet side and a diffuser cap with many holes on the outlet side.


Air Manifolds:

Air Manifolds are some of the wildest looking spa parts we sell! A Manifold is used to split the flow of air from one large pipe into many smaller hose barbs. Air Manifolds are typically 2″ or 1.5″ inlet and 3/8″ hose barb outlet.


Air Switch:

Air Switches are used with air buttons, to activate spa and hot tub equipment, when using an air-control system, aka older style pneumatic controls. Air Switches can be a simple on/off switch for a blower or light, or more complex switch that will sequentially control many functions.


Brominator:

A bromine feeder or dispenser for constantly and consistently adding small amounts of bromine sanitizer to a spa or hot tub. There are bromine floaters, or a free-standing Brominator can be plumbed inline on the spa return line or off-line where space is an issue.


Capacitor:

Start Capacitors are s small battery that helps spa pump motors get up to speed quickly (3450 RPM), Run Capacitors alternate current to one or more windings of a single phase AC induction motor to help create a rotating magnetic field to reduce motor workload. 


Check Valve:

A Check Valve is a one-way flow valve, and is used for both air, water and ozone systems in spas and hot tubs. Spa blowers always have a check valve on the plumbing to allow air out, but not allow water in. Ozone check valves keep water out of the ozone hose and ozonator.


Chip Number:

On a PCB or printed circuit board, there is a Chip Number printed on the main chip, often referencing a Revision Number. When replacing a spa circuit board on a spa control, be sure to match chip number and revision, and superseded versions.


Contactor:

A Contactor is a large relay or an electric switch rated for high amperage. Contactors are used on larger electric heaters such as C-SPA or Coates heaters. Fairly sturdy items, but subject to damage under excessive loads or chattering.


Control:

Your Spa Control is the brain of the hot tub. Spa Controls are digital and fully electronically controlled. Older spa controls are pneumatic systems with Air Controls. New Spa Controls are typically sold with a new heater and new topside control panel.


Diffuser:

A Pump Diffuser is used to evenly diffuse water flow, inside of a pump, a filter or returning to the spa. Ozone diffusers are also used to provide for even ozone disbursement.


Diverter:

A Diverter is used inside of a valve, to divert water flow into or from one or more pipes. Large spas often have spa side knobs that can be turned to activate different banks of spa jets. The knob, connected to a shaft, is turning a diverter inside of the valve.


Element:

Hot tub Heater Elements are similar to those found in electric hot water heaters, or the coiled burners found on electric cook tops. Spa heater elements can be replaced when they develop problems, but those with the Balboa style tube heater just replace the entire heater assembly.


Escutcheon:

An Escutcheon Plate is a trim ring used around spa jets, aka spa jet wall fitting or spa jet escutcheons. Spa side buttons often have a shiny retainer ring escutcheon used as trim, and Escutcheon plates are also found around spa grab rails used on inground spas.


Filter:

Spa Filter can refer to both the entire filter assembly, or can be used to refer to the internal spa filter cartridge. Spa Filters are rated for 12-24 months for most residential use. Keep an extra spa filter on hand, so you can dry them completely after cleaning; kills more bacteria.


Flow Switch:

Electric spa heaters can basically melt-down if the water flow isn’t proper, a Flow Switch is a electro-mechanical device that plumbs in front of, or sometimes after, the spa heater to monitor flow rate. Harwil type paddle switches are common, but there are many others.


Heat Manifold:

A Spa Heater Manifold is a plastic or steel box or tube used to house an electric spa element. They have connections for incoming and outgoing water, sensors and the element terminals.


High Limit Switch:

Another spa heater part, High Limit Switches are used to sense the highest limit of temperature. Typically two high limits are used, to measure incoming and outgoing water temperature. OH and HL error codes are produced when they sense an overheating situation.


Impeller:

The Spa Pump Impeller is similar but opposite in design to a boat propeller. Impellers are designed to draw water in and push it out forcefully. Most spa pump impellers are closed vanes, and they can become clogged with seeds or debris of a certain size.


Inlet:

Water coming into a spa or hot tub, such as through a spa jet or foot jet, is known as an inlet. There are hundreds of styles of spa inlets, by Balboa, G&G, HydroAir, Jacuzzi and Waterway.


Jet:

Spa Jet Parts is quite a large term encompassing many other parts. The Spa Jet Body is the main housing of a spa jet, which holds the Jet Internal and Nozzle, held in place by a Jet Retainer or Wall Fitting.


Lock Nut:

Lock Nuts are used around spas and hot tubs in many places, to secure a filter cover or wall fitting tightly to the spa shell. Also used on spa unions, and behind each jet, Lock Nuts, aka Lock Rings are ubiquitous parts on spa and hot tub equipment. See also: Split-Nut Union.


Motor:

Hot Tub Motors are used on spa jet pumps and spa circulation pumps, to turn the Impeller, which drives the filtering and sanitation equipment. Forced air spa blowers also have motors, and ozonators likewise have tiny air pump motors and time clocks have a small timer motor.


Nozzle:

Some Spa Jets have a Nozzle, or an orifice tip that is screwed into the spa jet. Mostly found on inground spas, Nozzles of different sizes can be replaced. For portable spas and hot tubs, common spa jet nozzles are part of the one-piece Jet Internal.


Outlet:

Water leaving a spa or hot tub. Spa Suction Outlets include the spa skimmer and spa main drain, aka spa suction outlet. Outlets are where the water goes Out of the tub, and Inlets are where the water comes In to a hot tub.


PCB:

Printed Circuit Boards, or Spa Circuit Boards, often abbreviated PCB’s are used in every spa controller and topside control. Modern spa controls depend heavily on PCB’s, which have improved in quality and design tremendously in the last 20 years.


Pressure Switch:

A Pressure Switch for spas is used as an approximation of water flow, or used in place of a flow switch. Pressure switches are factory set to open when they sense a minimum level of pressure within the heater, as an indicator of sufficient water flow for safe heater operation.


Pump:

The spa or hot tub pump is the heart of your circulation system, crucial for filtration, sanitation and heating. Some spas will have one 2-speed pump, and others will have 2 pumps, one for ‘Jet Action’ and one for near constant circulation.


Relay:

A Spa Relay is an electronic switch, usually mounted to a printed circuit board. They are often small black cubes about an inch tall, and are used to control switching to your spa equipment, or turning on/off your pump(s), heater, blower, light, ozonator.


Shut-off Valve:

Also called an Isolation Valve, Spa Shut-Off Valves allow you to shut off the water to perform certain maintenance items like cleaning the pump basket or spa filter, adding chemicals, or making repairs to the spa pack or other equipment.


Skimmer:

Surface Skimmer is the full name, a spa skimmer is used to draw water from the surface to remove floating debris and dust. Works in tandem with the spa drain, to keep spa water clean and clear. Skimmers have a skimmer Weir and basket to empty.


Split-Nut Union:

A Split Nut Union is a Lock Nut with two small screws on either side. Most often used to replace a broken Lock Nut, because there is no way to slip a new one over the pipe. Split Nut Unions come apart to quickly replace pump unions and heater unions.


Tailpiece:

A Tailpiece is half of a spa union, specifically half of a Pump Union or Heater Union. It’s the part that slips through the Lock Ring and connects to the incoming or outgoing pipe. Can be ordered separately or as a pump union or heater union part.


Temp Sensor:

Temperature Sensor is the full name, used to monitor temperature of the water, both for display on the topside control, or for use to prevent overheating. New Style M7 Balboa heaters have done away with pressure switches and instead now use two temp sensors.


Terminals:

There are terminals all over your spa control and equipment. Any place that a wire makes a connection, there is a terminal. Spa wires use many types of plugs but they all connect to some sort of terminal. Keep your terminals clean and dry.


Thermostat:

Older spa control systems use mechanical thermostats, but most spas on the road nowadays have electronic thermostats used with a temperature sensor, placed into a thermowell, to sense the current water temperature, and allow user adjustment.


Thermowell:

Thermowells are the holders or ‘well’ of a temp sensor. Dry thermowells are a metal or plastic tube in the shape of a test tube, with the temp sensor placed inside. Wet thermowells are simple rubber seals that allow placement of a heavy duty coated temp sensor in direct contact with the spa water, inside of a pipe.


Timer:

Spa and hot tub timers control the operation time for pumps to run each day. Modern spas allow you to choose from modes, but older control systems use mechanical timeclocks to set program times. For most spas, 12-18 hrs daily on low speed, and 1-2 hours on high speed is sufficient.


Transformer:

Spa Transformers reduce voltage from a higher voltage to a lower voltage. Spa controls all have a transformer to operate the spa systems with just 24V-32V usually. Transformers for spas can be tested with a multi-meter, voltage-in and voltage-out.


Topside Control:

The main spa control panel mounted on the ‘Top Side’, for user control of program modes. Also known as a spa side control, or display panel, it functions as a remote control panel to your spa controller. New Topside Panels must match the Spa Control model exactly.


Union:

Unions are used to facilitate easier removal of spa equipment from tight spaces beneath spas. Pump Unions and Heater Unions can often be removed with big hands, or a strap wrench or large Channel pliers may be needed for sticky unions. Union parts include the Tail Piece, Lock Nut, O-ring and Male End.


Vacuum Switch

A Vacuum Switch is the opposite of a Pressure Switch, but it operates in the same manner, as a proxy for water flow. Vacuum Switches are placed in front of the suction side of the pump, factory set to open when they sense a minimum level of vacuum pressure.


Venturi

The Venturi Effect was first documented by Giovanni Battista Venturi way back in 1797, and the principles in use today are still the same. Fluid pressure reduces when water is forced through a small opening. Mazzei ozone injectors use the venturi principle, as well as passive Air Controls.


Volute:

Pump Volutes are also called the pump strainer housing or more specifically the pump impeller housing. The shape and design of the pump volute determines the flow characteristics. Volutes are fairly sturdy but may crack under extreme pressure or freezing water.


Wall Fitting

Spa Wall Fittings is the beauty ring or trim ring around a spa jet, typically round and open in the center with threads on the inside and/or outside. Wall Fittings are often available in designer finishes and colors.


Weir:

Inside of every spa skimmer is a tiny flapper door thingy, called a skimmer weir or floating weir. Packed with foam, the spa weir has two purposes, to accelerate water flow into the skimmer, and to stand vertical when the pump shuts off, to trap debris inside the skimmer well.


HOT-TUB-PARTS

Do you have any other spa parts terminology you wonder about? Or other ways to call your hot tub parts? There are regional differences around the country in spa parts lingo and trade terms used. What do you call that thing-a-majig?

 

Happy Hot Tubbin’

 

Daniel Lara
Hot Tub Works

 

Troubleshooting Spa Topside Control Panels

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The Spa Topside control panel is used on hot tubs, portable spas, jetted tubs – just about every spa uses a display panel to allow the user to easily control the functions of a typical spa – pumps, heater, lights, blower.

And that’s all the topside control is – a control panel, think of it as a remote control for your hot tub, wired into your spa controller, which is really the brains of the spa system. The spaside control panel, it’s just a convenient way to turn things on and off, and view equipment status lights and water temperature.

Topside controls typically consist of a small LED or LCD screen, touchpad membranes and LED indicator lights, topped with a pretty decal or overlay, as they are called. Topside controls can be digital, analog, or a combination, and are made for both air control systems and digital control systems for spas.

Topside controls will only work with a particular spa system control board(s). Another TV reference would be appropriate; you have to use the TV remote that is made for your make and model of television. It’s the same with spa topside controls, they only work with the spa control make and model for which they were designed. And even more specifically, many topside controls only work with circuit boards that have a particular chip version, which is printed on the spa control circuit board main chip label.

Topside control panels are also not easily test-able. The best way to see if a topside control is bad, is to plug in another one and see if it works. Since spaside panels are not returnable, this entails some risk on the spa owner. But there are some ways to reduce the risk… read on.

No Display on Topside Control Panel

  • Reset Spa Controller, power down and restart
  • Check for condensation under display glass
  • Check cable for crimps or any visible damage
  • Clean plug-in cable connections on both ends
  • Check power at Transformer on control circuit board
  • Check power at fuse on spa control circuit board
  • Check that topside control number works with spa control chip version
  • Inspect circuit board for damage and correct power output
  • Replace topside control

Spa Control Panel Displays Incorrectly

  • Error messages or error codes may indicate the problem
  • Flickering display may indicate low voltage from transformer
  • Partial display may indicate dirty contacts or moisture
  • Blinking lights or flashing — indicates a system reset is needed
  • Check that topside control number works with spa control chip version
  • Inspect circuit board for damage and correct power output
  • Replace topside control

Spaside Control Panel Buttons Not Working Correctly

  • Check for moisture under glass or on contacts
  • Check cable for any rodent damage, crimping or melting
  • Clean plug-in cable connections at both ends
  • Membrane or touch pad buttons may be faulty
  • Inspect circuit board for damage and correct power output
  • Replace topside control

Bottom line is – it could be a bad spaside control panel, or it could be a bad spa control board, or a bad cable that runs between the control panel and the control board. Or it could be fuse on the circuit board or the transformer, not sending the correct power to the topside panel. If you recently replaced the topside control panel and are having issues, check that your topside control panel is compatible with your circuit board and chip revision number.

If you need help identifying the correct topside control panel to use with your spa controller, first check the backside of the topside control for a part number. If that is missing, open up the controller and write down all the numbers on the circuit board, including the main chip number, and give us a call, we can help you get the right topside, or advise further on your topside control troubleshooting process.

 

Happy Hot Tubbin’

Daniel Lara
Hot Tub Works

 

 

 

 

Spa Electrical Component Testing

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Image by Canadian Spa Company blog
Warning,
geeky electrical component post coming up! Today I’m talking about testing spa and hot tub electrical component resistance, namely how to test for continuity on hot tub heater elements, fuses, transformers, sensors and switches.

Warning, testing electrical components can be hazardous, and should be performed by confident individuals aware of electrical hazards. For testing continuity or resistance, shut all power off to the spa, at the main breaker, testing resistance when under power can damage your meter, the equipment tested, or yourself! Shut down all spa power disconnects.

To test a spa heater, transformer, sensors and switches, you will need a multi-meter that tests for Ohms Ω. You can find a digital multi-meter at any home or hardware store for under $15. Ohm meters will measure the known resistance in a spa electrical component, and can also be used to check for shorts in wires, cables and cords.

 

Testing Heater Elements

  1. Shut off all power to the spa at the breaker and spa pack
  2. Remove the wires or copper tabs on the heater element terminalsspa heaters diagram
  3. Set your Ohm meter to the lowest setting
  4. Place your meter leads on the tip of each element terminal
  5. A reading of 10-14 Ohms is good for most heater elements

If your spa heater element (with wires or tabs removed) reads zero resistance, or displays ‘Open’, that means that the element sheath has a crack or the coil inside is otherwise grounding out, and should be causing your circuit breaker or GFCI to trip. Time for a new hot tub heater element or a complete spa heater assembly.

Testing Spa Transformers

  1. Shut off all power to the spa at the breaker and spa pack
  2. Set your Ohm meter to the lowest setting
  3. Locate the resistance values printed on the transformer
  4. Place your meter leads onto a Primary wire and a Secondary wire
  5.  Compare the reading to the transformer specs specified

Transformers take 120V or 240V power and step it down to a reduced voltage to operate specific spa component circuits. Spa transformers that are soldered to the board are not as easy to test with an Ohm meter, and also keep in mind that many modern spas have several board mounted transformers.

Testing Spa Temperature Sensors

  1. Shut off all power to the spa at the breaker and spa packspa-sensors
  2. Set your Ohm meter to the 20K setting
  3. Locate the wire ends and remove the plug from the board
  4. Place your meter leads onto the green and red wire
  5. Compare readings to Thermistor Resistance vs. Temperature Chart

Most spa and hot tub high limits, aka thermistors, thermal cut-offs and temperature sensors – will have a resistance reading of around 10000 at 77 degrees Fahrenheit. Colder water produces higher readings up to 50K, while warmer 100° F water will produce lower readings. Refer to your spa manufacturer resistance vs. temperature chart. Or, if you get “0”, or a zero reading, the sensor or cable is likely bad. Many hot tubs have more than one temperature sensor; a heater sensor, water temp sensor and air temp sensor.

Testing Spa Fuses

  1. Shut off all power to the spa at the breaker and spa packpicture of spa fuse
  2. Set your Ohm meter to the 1K setting
  3. Remove the fuse from the board or fuse housing
  4. Place your meter leads on each end of the fuse
  5. Compare readings to printed Ohms level

Blown spa and hot tub fuses will not show any continuity, or a “0” reading when testing. Some meters will display “Open” or O.L. (for Open Loop). A clear fuse can also be visually inspected to see if the wire or coil inside is broken of course, but for opaque fuses, you can test them with your Ohm meter.

Testing Pressure Switch or Flow Switches

  1. spa pressure switch shown being testedShut off all power to the spa at the breaker and spa pack
  2. Set your Ohm meter to the 1K setting
  3. Remove one wire from the pressure switch
  4. Place meter leads on both wire terminals
  5. If anything other than “0”, adjust pressure switch

With one wire removed, the pressure switch, or flow switch, should have zero resistance, as the switch should be ‘Open’. An Ohm meter can be used to adjust the pressure switch back to ‘zero’, by turning the adjustment knob or screw slightly until the meter drops to near zero.

 


In most spa components, Resistance is Good, with exception to pressure switches. No resistance is bad, as it means that there is another path that the electricity is taking, which usually means a defective component or cable, and it could also pose a safety hazard – where is the power loss going?

You can also use your multi-meter to test resistance of lengths of wire or cable. One probe on each end, and there should be resistance measured, NO resistance and there is a short somewhere.

Always remember, Shut Off Power completely down when testing spa electrical components for resistance, in Ohms.

Ohm SymbolNow everyone say “Ohhhhmmmmmsssss” – doesn’t that feel good?

 

Happy Hot Tubbin’

 

Daniel Lara
Hot Tub Works

 

 

 

Troubleshooting Spa Circuit Boards

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spa-circuit-boards
Printed Circuit Boards, often abbreviated PCB, are the brain of a spa controller system, allowing intelligent switching on/off of spa components from a user friendly topside control panel.

Circuit boards control your spa components (pumps, heater, blower, light, ozone) and apply the chip programming which controls safety circuits, user interface and operation modes for the spa. Hot tub circuit boards handle all of the spa program modes, monitors the operation of spa equipment, and most importantly, keeps the spa hot and ready to use.

To allow the spa user to communicate with the board and vice versa, a compatible topside control panel is used to view spa component status indicators, program modes, water temperature and error messages. Circuit boards and topside control panels must be compatible with each other, in order to communicate.

Circuit Board Troubleshooting Tip #1 – It’s Not Usually the Circuit Board

Balboa topside controls9 times out of 10, when your topside control panel has gone out-of-control, or one of your pumps, or heater stops working, it’s not a circuit board problem. It’s most often a problem with the topside control panel, and when it’s not, it’s a problem with the transformer, or a blown fuse, a tripped circuit breaker, or a problem with the component, like a bad pump or blower motor or a bad heater element.

Circuit Board Troubleshooting Tip #2 – What Does the Topside Panel Say?

If you have no display on your topside control panel, check the cable for damage, following it right to where it plugs in, on the circuit board. Unplug it from the board and the low-speed pump will come on within 1 minute, on both systems. If that doesn’t happen, either the pump or the circuit board is bad.

cal-spas-flo-errorIf you do have a display visible on the topside panel, what does it say? You can find common spa error codes for spa controls on our blog, or consult your spa owner’s manual. FL, FLO or — codes refer to low water flow, Sn, SnS or Sens refer to high limit or temp sensors, OH or HOT refer to overheating.

Aside from error codes, an important clue for spa troubleshooting is – when you turn on a component (heater, pump, light…) on the topside panel, does the indicator also turn on? An icon or indicator light should display, when you activate any component on your spa. If not, the trouble is with the topside control, but if you do see the icon/light come on, but the pump/heater/blower/light is not actually working, the issue could be with the spa component, or the spa circuit board.

Circuit Board Troubleshooting Tip #3 – Testing a Spa Circuit Board

spa-controllerSo assuming that your topside control panel is operating properly, and there are no error messages that indicate a water flow issue, overheating issue or other potential issue, the next step is to put your eyes on the circuit board itself.

First, cut off the power to the spa, then open up the Spa Controller, usually located under the spa, above the heater. You should be able to find the screws that allow you to remove or open the control box cover, to access the circuit board.

When you first see it, it’s a confusing array of resistors, relays, capacitors and wires. The longer you stare at it, you’ll begin to see where the power come into the terminal block, and where the heater connects to the board. You can also see where the other spa components are connected. A large square or rectangle computer chip is usually central, marked with the chip number and a date code. Circuit boards also often have indicator lights that can provide a clue that may not be displaying on the topside control.

spa-control-circuit-board-diagram

Take a long look at your circuit board to inspect for any signs of burning, melting or cracking. Often you can smell a burnt circuit board. Check all of the bits on the board for any signs of damage, looking closely also at the wire or cable connection points on the board. Check that all the wire connections are tight, and look for any signs of water damage to the board. Some damage may be only visible on the opposite side of the board.

Transformers and fuses are often mounted directly on spa circuit boards. A transformer changes voltage (transforms it) to a lower voltage, whatever is needed to power the circuit board. Fuses are in place to protect your circuit board from irregular voltage, and if your fuses are blown, check all contacts, the GFCI,  and incoming voltage.electrical test meter

Transformers and spa fuses can both be tested with a multi-meter, set on 220V for the transformer, and set on the lowest Ohms setting for fuses, to check for continuity. You can also test across the incoming terminals to verify transformers and fuses all at once. With power off, and meter set to the lowest Ohms setting, place one meter probe on L1 (line 1), and the other meter probe onto Neutral. On 120V wired boards, you should get about 20 Ohms, or 40 Ohms for 220V wired boards.

Circuit Board Troubleshooting Tip #4 – Replacing a Spa Circuit Board

If you find that your circuit board is damaged, pay close attention to where it was damaged, and think hard about why it was damaged. Common causes are loose wire connections, loose heater connections especially, insect or rodent damage, water damage, or relay or transformer failure. As mentioned above, blown fuses may seem like you dodged a bullet, but you still want to find out what caused fuse failure, or it may happen again.

buy new circuit boards at hottubworks.comWhen replacing hot tub circuit boards, the most important thing is to make sure that you have the correct part number, serial number and chip number revision. Many boards are compatible with one another, however many spa circuit boards that look identical, are not. Most circuit boards are printed with the part number, and the chip number. If you have any doubt, call our spa techs to help you order correctly because, once a circuit board is removed from the sealed anti-static bag, they are non-returnable!

With the correct replacement spa circuit board in hand, you can carefully replace it into the control box, being careful to handle it only by the edges. Wire connections should be firmly connected, and heater wires should be torqued to 35 lbs, to prevent vibration problems. Be sure to correct any issues with moisture, insects or wiring that led to the original circuit board failure.

Bonus Tip – if facing replacement of your spa circuit board, consider replacement of the entire spa controller. Spa Controls are not much more (maybe double the cost) than the cost of a circuit board, but you also get a new heater and topside control.

 

– Jack

 

Hot Tub Wiring

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Installing a new hot tub? Wiring for a full featured portable hot tub has to be done correctly, as we all know that water and electricity don’t mix. A 50 or 60 amp breaker provides power to a secondary GFCI box, which powers the spa pack controller. Hire an electrician and pull a permit, so that you can be sure it was all done up-to-code.

PERMITTING A HOT TUB

Do you need a permit for a hot tub? Probably. Most local building and zoning boards want to certify that hot tub wiring has been done safely, properly and ‘up to code’. The Permit-Inspection-Approval process is in place to prevent unsafe spa wiring, which can result in electrocution and fire.

Having an inspector certify the work ensures that electricians don’t cut corners like using small wire size, cheap connectors, incorrect or absent conduit, or ignoring important safety regulations. It also ensures that your contractor is licensed in your state to perform hot tub wiring.

Wiring a hot tub is best left to licensed electricians that have experience working with Article 680.42, and with local electrical inspector interpretations of the code, which can vary. Avoid using ‘cousin Billy’s son’, or anyone other than a licensed and established electrician, and if they tell you that you don’t need a permit, run for the hills (find another contractor)! Remember, it’s for your protection and safety, to have hot tub wiring done properly, and up to the most current code.

WIRING A HOT TUB

There are plug-n-play hot tubs that you can literally plug into a 15 amp wall outlet, but if you want a tub with powerful equipment and features, these require hard-wiring to a 50 or 60 amp breaker, on a dedicated circuit (nothing else powered by the breaker).

Square D 50-amp GFCI panel for outdoor installationThe first question is, do you have enough room (spare amperage) in your existing home breaker panel, to add a rather large 50 amp circuit breaker? You can add up the amps listed on the breaker handle, and compare it to the label at the top of the panel, that tells how many amps the panel supports in total (usually 100, 200, or 400 amps).

The second question is, how far away from the main home breaker panel, do you want to place the spa? You will need to run 4 wires in conduit, from the new circuit breaker, to the GFCI power connection in the spa pack. A secondary GFCI power cut-off outside of the spa, but at least 5 feet from the spa, is connected to the breaker in the main home breaker panel. Many electricians like to use this Square D 50-amp GFCI panel, shown right.

Once you get power into the spa from a dedicated circuit, the 4 wires (Ground, Neutral, Hot 120V, Hot 120V) will connect directly into your spa pack. Consult your owner’s manual for specific connections and settings, accessed inside the control box. Once connected, follow your particular spa instructions for filling and starting up your new hot tub or spa pack.

BONDING A HOT TUB

Bonding for hot tubs is an important part of electrical safety. A bare copper wire is attached to bonding lugs on metal and electrical spa equipment. Bonding captures stray voltages or short circuits that any one load (pump, blower, heater) may be producing. The large gauge bare copper wire creates an easy pathway for fault currents to flow, to protect spa users from electric shock.

Equipotential bonding is another type of bonding that connects a body of water (pool or spa) to the rebar steel used in the pool deck. In 2014, the NEC amended Article 680.42 to permit spa and hot tub installations without equipotential bonding, but with these exceptions:

  • Must be Listed as a “Self Contained Spa” on the certification label.
  • It cannot be Listed as “For Indoor Use Only” on the certification label.
  • It must be installed according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
  • it must be installed 28″ above any surface within 30″ of the tub.

 

Happy Hot Tubbin’

Daniel Lara
Hot Tub Works

 

Replacing a Hot Tub Circulation Pump

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hot-tub-circulation-pumps
Spa circulation pumps are low flow, single speed pumps that run 24 hrs to keep your water filtered and heated. They run all the time, but are low energy use, drawing between 0.5 and 1.5 amps.

Running all the time does accelerate wear and tear, and makes the average circ pump lifespan about 7-9 years. If you need to replace a hot tub circ pump, here are the steps taken to do it yourself.

Do I need a new circulation pump?

Before you run off and buy a new replacement circ pump, you want to check a few things first, namely power and water flow. See our earlier post on circulation pump troubleshooting to see if you’ve checked all of the simple stuff first.

Which Circulation Pump do I need?

There are two main types of hot tub circulation pumps, high flow circ pumps and low flow circ pumps.

iron-might-circ-pump High Flow Circ Pumps look more like jet therapy pumps, and are often confused with such because of their size and appearance. They use a 48 frame motor, with a connected steel foot, and have 1.5″ union connections. They can be 115V or 230V, but only use up to 1.5 amps. The most common high flow circ pumps are the AquaFlo Circmaster and Waterway Iron Might, shown here.

 

tiny-might-circ-pumpLow Flow Circ Pumps look more like large aquarium pumps, and operate in the 6 to 15 gpm range, to work with low flow spa heaters. They have hose barb connections to fit to  3/4″ or 1″ flexible hose, with clamps. They can be 115V or 230V, and less than 1 amp. The most common low flow circ pumps are made by Laing, Grundfos and Waterway.

 

The circulation pump that you need, is the exact replacement, in voltage, amperage and hose or pipe connection type and location. High flow pumps can be center discharge or side discharge, and low flow pumps can have 3/4″ or 1″ connections, and may have a left or right side discharge. If you need help finding your replacement, just give us a call or send an email.

Hot Tub Circulation Pump Replacement

1aShut off the Power: Hit the main breaker or cut-off switch to kill all power coming into the spa pack. Wires will be exposed and water will spill, so don’t take any chances and play it safe. If water splashes on any circuitry or wire connections during the process, take the time to dry it up before energizing the spa.

2aShut off the Water: Most circ pumps don’t have isolation valves on either side; slice valves that can be closed to shut off water, although common on jet pumps and on high flow circ pump systems. You can drain the spa to make the repair, if you need to drain anyway, but it’s not necessary. The hoses can be plugged using wine corks or stoppers, or pinched using large needle nose locking pliers (Vice-Grip type). Or you can do a quick swap, described below, and spill a few gallons.

3aWiring the Circ Pump: Circ pumps don’t usually come with a new power cord, so you’ll use the existing one. If you have a plug-in type of connector at the end of the cord, disconnect it from the spa pack. If the power cord runs directly into the control box and connects to terminals, leave those connections intact, and remove the wires only from the back of the existing motor – or you can just cut the wire where it enters the old motor, strip back the casing and the ends to put into the new motor.

Insert the wires into the new circ pump, tighten the cord collar or strain relief where the cord enters the motor, and insert the stripped wire ends into the spring loaded tabs. The black wire will plug into L (Line), white wire will connect to N (Neutral), and the green wire goes to G (Ground). Disconnect the bare copper wire that is connected to the outside of the old motor, this is the bonding wire, that you’ll connect to the new pump once it’s in position.

4aPlumbing the Circ Pump: For very old and crusty connections, a heat gun or hair dryer can be used to soften the vinyl hose or tubing, which makes it easier to remove from the pump without a lot of pulling and jerking. The circ pump is also likely screwed into the base of the equipment bay, remove the screws in the pump base, and set aside to use later on the new pump.

Since there commonly are no cut-off valves on either side of a low flow circ pump, if your spa is full of water you will spill some water while installing a new circ pump. As mentioned above, if the spa is full of water, you can crimp the hose with locking needle nose pliers, or plug the hoses with corks until you are ready to switch, or if you have snipped off the power cord and reinstalled into the new pump already, you can make a quick swap, and spill just a few gallons.

Loosen the hose clamp and slide it down the hose. I usually pop off the top (discharge connection) first and cork it, then separate the incoming hose from the front center and very quickly swap pumps and insert the incoming hose over the front center hose barb. Then the top discharge hose can be unplugged and connected, also quickly, with minimal water loss.

If you have a high flow circ pump or a Waterway Tiny Might pump, you will loosen the unions and quickly make a swap with your new pump, being sure that the union o-rings stay in place while tightening up the union nuts.

5aFinishing Up: Now that you have reconnected the hoses on your pre-wired pump, the only things left to do is reconnect the bare copper bonding wire to the lug on the new circulation pump, and replace the screws to secure the pump, to reduce vibration. That, and testing your new circulation pump, followed by a hearty self-congratulation for diagnosing and fixing your hot tub problem!

 

– Jack

 

 

 

Spa & Hot Tub Plumbing Fittings Explained

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spa-and-hot-tub-plumbing-fittings
Spa and Hot Tub Plumbing Fittings are made of PVC or ABS, and are those bits of spa plumbing that are used to connect the sections of pipe running from the skimmer and drain, thru the pump, filter and heater, and back again thru the spa jets, in just a matter of seconds.

Today I’ll explain spa and hot tub plumbing fittings, with pictures and words, so that you can identify them, and know when to use them, on your next spa repair.

90’s – The classic elbow fitting is available in 3 flavors, With SlipxSlip aka SocketxSocket, the pipe goes on the inside. The other two are known as ‘street 90’s (don’t ask me why). SlipxSpigot has one side that glues into a union, adapter or coupling, and the SpigotxSpigot 90 degree elbow is ‘slip male’ on both sides.

90-fittings

 

45’s – Half of an elbow, the 45 degree elbow is used a lot on octagonal spas, and two 45’s can be used in place of one 90° fitting, with less resistance. Like the 90’s, they are available in 3 flavors, to suit almost any repair situation, where 1/2 an inch matters.

45-fittings

 

Air Intake Fittings – You’ll find these connected to a pipe or hose that connects to an air intake valve. These versatile side outlet 90 with 3/4″ side port are also used to direct water to smaller jet lines.

air-intake-spa-fittings

 

Sweep Elbows provide less resistance to the flow of water than regular 90 degree fittings, and are often found installed on the exit of the spa pump. Sweep elbows are SxS, or use the versatile street sweep 90, which glues directly into a pump or heater union.

sweep-elbows-have-lower-resistance

 

Pump Unions are a half union really, just the tailpiece with o-ring and the lock nut. The most common size is 1.5″, followed by 2″, but larger and smaller are also available. A split nut union, shown below, is held in place by two small screws, after being screwed or placed into position. Union o-rings and locknuts are sold separately.

pump-union-for-hot-tubs

 

Pipe Couplings are used to join together sections of pipe or hose. SxS couplings are glued around the pipe, while insert ‘pipe extender’ fittings are glued inside of a pipe and inside of a coupling, for no-space repairs. Barbed fittings are primarily used inside of hose lines to connect them together.

pipe-couplings

 

Check Valves – one way flow valves that keep water (or air) traveling in only one direction. Check valves protect a spa blower, or prevent cycling of water in loops. They often fail under normal conditions.

spa-check-valves-2

 

Spa Valves or Hot Tub valves if you prefer, control the direction and flow rate of the spa water. Some valves handles turn left or right, some pull up and down or spin all the way around. Spa valves can fail over time, some can be serviced others are replaced whole.

spa-valves

 

Spa Unions or the complete union, as shown below right, joins together two sections of pipe, usually located on either side of spa equipment like the pump, heater or filter. Half unions, as shown left, are also called pump unions, and also used on spa heaters.

spa-unions-for-hot-tubs

 

Spa Manifolds are some of the most interesting designs, used to split water or air into smaller branches, terminating at a spa jet or air bubble zone. Highly specialized, but many spa manufacturers use the same ones. We carry over 50 different spa plumbing manifolds.

spa-manifolds plumbing

 

180-deg-fitting-or-double-90

180 fittings are used in a spa blower plumbing, specifically for the Hartford Loop, employed on the air line attached to the blower, which takes a vertical run up 2 ft, then 180’s and comes back down to connect to the pipe again. Used to help keep water out of the blower.

If you didn’t have a 180° fitting, you could of course, use two 90 fittings, or four 45’s, but spa builders like this handy fitting, which has really only one use.

 

We have other plumbing fittings besides these listed here for spa and hot tub plumbing. I hope you enjoyed reviewing these fittings, you are now more qualified to do your own spa plumbing repairs!

 

– Jack

 

3 Enemies of Hot Tub Heater Elements

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hot-tub-heater-enemies
Hot tub heater elements are similar to the electric immersion elements used in household hot water heaters and washing machines, with a few important distinctions. Hot tub water chemistry tends to vary and it swings widely when 4 people jump into the tub. Spa heater elements are also subject to issues from low water flow or air inside the heater chamber, and all of these variables can lead to a shorter spa heater element lifespan.

Air Bubbles and Air Pockets

The main enemy to all spa heater elements, besides low water flow, are air bubbles & air pockets that can reduce element life. Air that comes in contact with the element, allows the outer sheath to rapidly heat unevenly, which breaks the protective sheath and exposes the filament. Low flow heaters are mounted vertically, so the bubbles are constantly exiting the chamber without entrapment. Tube heaters like the Laing design do not trap bubbles, so they can be bent into bizarre shapes, & even lay on the floor.

Spa pumps are designed to be flooded & should not leak air or be allowed to cavitate by drawing in air, then sending the air through the hot tub heater. Ozone injectors should not be placed before the heater, which would reduces heater element lifespan and confuses hot tub heater sensors.

Bad Hot Tub Chemistry

Poor hot tub water chemistry is damaging to spa heater elements, particularly low pH and Alkalinity and high hardness levels. Additionally, fill water that is naturally high in salt, lime and calcium can also promote a slower, but still premature death. Corrosion is an etching and rusting effect that happens to ferrous metals (made with iron). As water becomes acidic (low in ph) high in TDS or overly chlorinated, corrosion is accelerated and your heater element is most at risk.

Hard Water Problems

Hot tubs in hard water areas, or those that are filled from an onsite well can have trouble with metals and minerals. Lime & calcium can naturally collect on a heater element surface, forming a white coating. This layer of scale will slow heat transfer, resulting in lower efficiency, longer heater run time, and a higher internal element temperature. The plaque buildup will not let heat escape efficiently, and in time the element will essentially cook itself to death. Use a Pre-Filter to fill your tub with pure water, a lot cheaper than 300 gallons of mineral water!

High Flow Heaters

No matter what shape the heater is, a high flow heater (typical name flow thru) utilizes a hi-watt density element (hwd) that requires a minimum 22.5 gpm to keep it cool. A typical 2 speed spa pump provides this minimum flow at low speed. When flow is restricted below 22.5 gpm, the element runs hotter than designed, and the spa heater element life is shortened. Bath and Jetted Tub heaters are always high flow and use the high density element (hwd), as bath pumps always exceed 25gpm. HWS heaters come in many shapes like Flow Thru, Tee, L-shape & Canister. You will not find hot tub parts catalogs separated into high flow & low flow heaters, but you do need to know this info to be a true hot tub expert.

Low Flow Heaters

Low flow heaters are designed for vertical mount operation. The exception is the tube or Laing spa heaters we supply. Either design is made with a much longer, cool running low watt density element (lwd) These heaters & elements are made to operate on flows greater than 9+ gpm. It makes perfect sense that low flow heaters are paired with low flow circulation pumps like the Waterway, Laing & Grundfos spa pumps, which provide minimum 9+ gpm with a spa ozone injector. Low flow heaters contain more material & labor, this is why they cost more money.

Some repair techs either don’t know, or try to save money by placing a high flow heater into a low flow circulation plumbing system. It actually works for a while, then the element burns out, along with plastic parts, piping & wires. Be sure and confirm that you are using the correct heater for your spa.

 

– Jack

 

8 Top Hot Tub Light Problems

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spa light troubleshooting

Troubleshooting spa lights is just like any other lighting – the problem lies where the power dies.

Spa lighting on new spas presents a bit more challenge with more lights to maintain, since many spas now come with sets of lights, internal and external, not just a single bulb in the foot basin.

Yet, the process for troubleshooting modern spa lights is the same as for traditional hot tub lights. Let’s go through it step by step – here’s a list of things to check when your spa light is not working.

 

Spa Light Switch Not Working

If you have an older tub that uses Air Switches to turn the light on and off, the first thing to check is the switch itself. An air switch is operated by a white button on the top of the spa shell that when pushed, sends a pulse of air to activate the switch. Check that the button functions up and down properly, and that the air hose is connected on both ends. You can blow air through the hose with your mouth to test the air switch operation. Modern spa lights are turned on by pressing the air button on the topside control panel, and usually has an indicator that displays when the light is on (or when it thinks it’s on).

Spa Light Fuse is Blown

spa-light-fuseMany spa packs use a small fuse to protect the lamp and bulb (and spa users), should the voltage rise above safe limits. The typical type of spa light fuse is the tube type – metal ends with a glass center, so you can view the wire inside. If the wire looks ruptured or the glass is discolored or looks like it heated up, replace the fuse with the same type and amperage. You can check a spa light fuse with a multi-meter. Set it to Ohms or resistance and place your probes on each end of the fuse. A good fuse will show ‘0’ resistance, and anything higher than ‘1’ means a bad fuse. The fuse is usually located inside the spa pack, possibly next to other fuses. Check your spa pack owner’s manual for exact location, it may not be labeled. Make sure power is OFF before opening up your spa pack, and use care when poking around in there.

Spa Light Relay is Stuck

Some spa light systems use relays to control or direct the power to the light. If you push the light button and can hear a small noise, then you do have relays. Many times these are attached to the circuit board, and often look like small ice cubes. Hearing the relay click does not mean that it’s good or bad, but they can get stuck, become corroded or otherwise fail. Again remember the Mantra – the problem lies where the power dies. You can test with a multi-meter, the power coming into spa relays, but it’s often easier to remove the light lamp and check for power at the light, during or just after turning the light on. Most spa light relays are located just before the pool light lamp, or last in line before power reaches the bulb.

Spa Light Transformer Problems

spa-light-transformerMost spa lights are 12V, although some are 24V, and to provide the light bulb with the right voltage, many spas use a small transformer to reduce the incoming voltage to the correct low voltage amount. A transformer is a small magnet, wrapped in a primary and secondary coil, to create an electromagnet. Transformers are fairly easy to recognize and are about 1.5″ square, with wire leads attached. You can measure the power coming into the transformer, and measure power coming out of the transformer, with a multi-meter. The voltage coming out should match what the label states (12V or 24V), and if it’s more than 10% higher or lower, you may need a new spa transformer. Be sure that the wires are not shorted or corroded, and are making good contact.

Spa Light Bulb Failure

Spa light bulbs don’t last forever, and this may be the first thing to check. Even LED spa light bulbs will fail, despite some claims that they last nearly forever, they usually burn out within ten years. What usually happens is a failure of 1 or 2 of the LED’s which shorts out the entire bulb. If you’re handy with a soldering gun, you may be able to bypass the burnt out diodes, but most people just replace the entire bulb, most are fairly inexpensive, but there are a few specialty spa led light bulbs that can cost hundreds of dollars. Spa lights may not always be visibly bad, or you may not be able to tell a bad led by looking at it. You can check a spa light bulb with a multi-meter. Set it to Ohms or resistance and place your probes on the light contacts. A good bulb will show ‘0’ resistance, and anything higher than ‘1’ is shorted out, or a bad bulb.

Spa Light Lamp Corrosion

spa-light-assemblyBeing that spa lights are typically underwater, corrosion from moisture can affect the contacts made between the lamp and the bulb. Often times, it can be cleaned up with a toothbrush or rag to quickly fix the problem. Other times the spa light lamp will fail if corrosion damages the contacts or the light shell too much. For most spa lights however, the lamp well stays rather dry, and corrosion won’t be noticed. Just give the spa lamp a good inspection, to be sure the contacts for the wire and the bulb are solid and intact. Replacing the entire hot tub light kit with new wires and connectors if often the fix.

Spa Light Wire Shorted

The spa light lamp has a wire connected to it, which can short out by being nicked, or chewed on by rodents or insects, or from being crimped for too long in one position. It’s a very thin wire, and it doesn’t take much to stop the flow of power to the light bulb. Even when these thin wires look good, they could be worth a second look. In some cases, you can find the short, and by wiggling it you will notice the light coming on/off in the spa. Don’t splice with butt end connectors, replace the spa light kit, very cheap and a better long term solution. The light wire connectors and connection can also be the problem, to inspect them, disconnect the wire connectors and clean with a toothbrush and look for any signs of damage.

Spa Control Board Issue

spa-circuit-boardFinally, the main PCB or printed circuit board could be preventing the light from coming on. As mentioned earlier, it could be the light relay on the board, or the fuse – or it could be any other partial board failure (capacitor, resistor) preventing the light from coming on, even though the control panel may tell you it’s on. In my experience, a problem on the circuit board is the cause of light failure only in a small percentage of cases. If you have gone through all the other spa light troubleshooting steps above, with no success, it could mean that the main spa circuit board is where the power dies, and hence where the problem lies.

 

spa-and-hot-tub-light-troubleshooting>>>> ONCE UPON A TIME… spas and hot tubs were easier to work on, like the mechanical automobiles of an earlier generation. The latest models of spas brag about their “29 points of light” and this alone makes troubleshooting hot tub lights more difficult, in addition to the controlled electrical aspects. You need not be an electrical wizard to find a spa light problem however, just remember to take it step by step and rule out all possible issues – and if we can help you out in any way, let us know!

 

– Jack

 

 

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Replacing a Spa Pack

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balboa-vs-spa-pack-newToday we cover, in detail – how to replace your spa or hot tub “Spa Pack”, the combination Controller, Heater and Pump system that connects to the Top Side panel and controls all of the functions for filtering, heating, lighting and purifying your spa; automatically.

The controller and heater of a Spa Pack (without the pump) can be installed separately; but if you want a complete upgrade, install the Balboa VS Spa Pack with 1 or 2 pumps, which will include the new digital Topside Panel, LED spa light and all new wiring. Blower is optional.

 

REMOVING THE OLD SPA PACK

1. DRAIN THE SPA

Unless you have valving on either side of your existing spa pack, you’ll need to have the water removed to replace your spa pack.

2. SHUT OFF ALL POWER

Disconnect completely at the circuit breaker in the panel or breaker box, and also at any secondary cut-off boxes that may be located nearby the spa or hot tub. Lock the boxes or place tape over the breaker to keep anyone from turning it on again, while you are working. Use a voltmeter to be sure that power is completely Off.

3. UN-PLUG THE PACK

Start by disconnecting the incoming electrical wiring (checking first with a voltmeter to be sure power is Off). Remove the front panel and simply unscrew the nuts or disconnect the wiring from the main terminal block, inside your existing spa pak control.

Next you can remove the accessory items that are plugged into the spa pack. Pump(s), blower, lights, panel, ozone, stereo, sensors. Fold over a piece of masking tape on each wire and write the port code, or write a color – code legend on paper, so you remember which wire goes where.

Look for a bare copper bonding wire that connects to the bar outside the control box. Remove or clip off with wire cutters.

4. UN-PLUMB THE PACK

Disconnect the plumbing unions that connect in and out of the heater, and the spa pack should slide out, mounted on a small skid made of plastic or plywood. Disconnect the unions on the pool pump or blower if necessary.

Inspect the floor beneath the old spa pack for rots and damage which is not uncommon, if the floor is not bare concrete, but a frame.Sweep up around the area, removing any dust or leaves, or excessive water loss.

 

INSTALLING THE NEW SPA PACK

1. ASSEMBLE THE PAK

balboa-spa-pack-partsThere’s some minor assembly required to connect the controller to the pump, via the double-90 fitting arrangement. The heater connection is made with the white gasket and the pump union is sealed up with the black gasket. Be sure that the o-ring and gasket is sitting in place properly and don’t overtighten the union nut on the pump or the split nut union on the heater.

2. PLUMB THE PACK

Connecting the plumbing in and out should be pretty fast, just position the new spa pack in place so that the plumbing lines up, the connection into the heater and the connection out of the pump.

plumbing-a-balboa-vs-spa-packFor the suction line, bringing water into the heater and then the pump, tighten the union together, using the old union, or cutting the pipe and gluing into the new split nut union.

For the return line, coming out of the top of the pump, this is a standard 2″ threaded pvc fitting or union, often a 90° fitting is used. Put Teflon tape or RTV silicone (or both) on the threads before hand tightening, very snug, and lined up with the pipe.

Use the same fitting from the old pump, if possible. If you cannot loosen the fitting in the old pump by hand, use very large channel lock type pliers to remove, or use a strap wrench. Or you can gently tap the ridges counter clockwise, with a small screwdriver and hammer.

Once your plumbing is connected, check that the skid is level using a small carpenter’s level. Shim the pack if necessary, with steel or plastic, and secure it the floor by running a  screw through the corners of the mounting base, into a wood frame or directly into the concrete.

3. WIRING THE PACK

All wiring is done with the power still Off. Double check with a voltmeter to be certain that power has not been mistakenly turned back on again while your plumbed the new spa pack in place.

Open the front cover of the Spa Control by loosening the top two cover screws, the bottom of the panel is hinged, swing the door down and open from the top.  On the inside of the panel door or cover you will see the wiring diagram for the receptacles, switches and components. Main power wires enter through the upper left side access hole, below which is the grounding and bonding bar on the left side, outside the cabinet.

balboa-vs-control-panel-wiring

New power cords are included for the various components, it’s best to replace the cords rather than use the old ones, even if they look intact. Plug in the cord to all the electrical loads like secondary pumps, blower, ozonator, lights, topside panel and the other end into the labeled slot on the motherboard. For single pump spas, or twin spas without a blower, the VS501 circuit board below is used.

balboa-vs-spa-pack-wiring-diagram

Wire the panel by bringing the wires inside on the upper left and connecting the power and the ground wires. Pumps, blowers and ozonators should also be bonded in accordance with your local codes. This is essentially connecting any metal component within 5 ft of the spa to the bonding grid or buss bar. Make sure that ground connections are solid. Torque to 27-30 lbs, which is pretty tight!

TEST DRIVING YOUR NEW SPA PACK

balboa-VS-spa-pak-installation-smFill the spa to normal level and check underneath the new spa pak for any leakage around the new plumbing connections. Turn on power to the spa pak and follow the quick start guide included with your  spa controller.

That’s it; 1001 words about how to replace your spa pack. We’ve just got a truckload of new Balboa spa packs and spa controllers in, and can have a new one shipped to you this week for the swap!

If you have any questions about replacing your old worn out spa controller pump and heater with a brand spanking new spa pack, you can order online, or give us a call to ask any questions about ordering or installing.

 

Happy Hot Tubbin’

Daniel Lara
Hot Tub Works