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Archive for the ‘Spa Ozone’ Category

Spa Foam: Eliminating Hot Tub Foaming

March 6th, 2014 by

foamy-hot-tubMy family and I took a short holiday recently, to a large theme park in Anaheim – I think you know the one I’m referring to. Well, we stayed in one of their theme hotels, which had a nice pool and spa. The spa water looked a little cloudy, but we got in anyway (after I checked the sanitizer level, lol). Turned on the bubbles, and whoa – did we get bubbles! Foam was nearly a foot high off the water. My kids thought it was hilarious fun and my wife didn’t seem to mind. I was disgusted, quite frankly.

Spa and Hot Tub foam is just plain nasty, when you know what has created the foaming water. A hot tub is not just a small pool – think of it as more of a large bath tub. When several people hop into a hot tub, the water becomes saturated with chemicals and soaps used on our skin, hair and bathing suits.

Causes of Hot Tub Foam

Every time you use your spa, the warm water absorbs dead skin cells, perspiration and dirt, and also lotions, oils, soaps, cosmetics and hair products. Over time, these invisible solids build up in the water, making the water ‘thick’.

Spa water chemistry also plays a role. A high pH and alkalinity and/or low calcium hardness levels creates an ideal condition for foaming. Add spa calcium increaser if you have soft water in your area, and your calcium hardness level is below 150 ppm. And, maintaining your pH level at 7.4-7.6 and your alkalinity in the range of 80-120 ppm will not only help prevent foaming, but has many other advantages.

Solutions to Hot Tub Foam

Spa Shock can break down many of these substances and reduce spa foaming in most cases, but spa shock has trouble removing oils and phosphates from the water.

Spa Enzymes can be used to break down oily, soapy substances, naturally. Enzymes actively seek and consume oils and scum which contribute to hot tub foam.

Spa Defoamer can be used to instantly remove spa foam. It’s a silicone solution that when sprayed on the surface, reduces surface tension, and spa foam disappears (if only temporarily).

Preventing Hot Tub Foam

The options above will do well to control a foamy hot tub, and keep the foaming to a minimum – but, it’s not really solving the problem.

Draining the Spa is the ultimate and inevitable solution to hot tub foaming. To prevent foaming caused by BioFilm, use Jet Clean before draining, at least once per year. If you can’t do a complete drain, you can drain half of the spa, and refill – and although it’s not a full drain & clean, you can fix a foaming spa problem, at least temporarily, in this manner.

Taking a shower before using the spa is always recommended, especially if you need to shower – and I think you know what I mean. Don’t use the spa as a bathtub.

Don’t Submerge if you have long hair, put your hair up to keep hair products out of the tub. Even those with short hair can bring in shampoo, conditioner and hair gel into the tub when they go under water.

Rinse your swimsuit in hot water if you have laundered them. Avoid wearing T-shirts or clothing that has been washed with soap. Trace amounts in your clothing or bathing suits will cause spa foaming.

Maintain Water Balance, with particular care to your pH, calcium and sanitizer levels.

 

Happy Hot Tubbin’

Daniel Lara
Hot Tub Works

 

Spa Maintenance & Safety for Rental Home Hot Tubs

February 24th, 2014 by

cabin-spa

 

Do you own or operate a rental cabin or B&B with a hot tub for the guests to use? If so, you know that a spa can significantly increase the appeal of the property for renters, but that it also brings with it another layer of maintenance in between guest stays.

My husband and I have had a mountain home near Mammoth Lakes, Ca that we rent out when we are not using it, through a rental agency. Over the past 15 years, I have many stories to tell about our little mountain spa.

Like the time we found broken champagne glasses in the bottom, or the time we discovered it missing nearly 1/3 of the water, or the many times we have found it left uncovered, cranked up to the max and low on water.

Here’s a list of ways to improve management of your rental home hot tub, and reduce surprises and potential conflicts with your guests.

Signs

I’m a big believer in signs all around the house – small, tasteful signs that I print up and laminate. Here’s a sample of some useful signs around your spa:spa-rules-sign

  1. Spa Rules – Standard sign warning of potential health dangers.
  2. Spa Operation – Custom sign telling how to remove cover, turn on jets, air, heater, lights. How to add water if needed. How to shock if needed.
  3. Spa Closing – Sign by the door, reminding users to turn off the spa, replace the spa cover and latch it securely.
  4. Spa Heating – Tips on spa heating, troubleshooting checklist of simple fixes for the spa temperature.

 

Equipment

In order to be sure that our spa stays as sanitary as possible, we have a small inline brominator installed under the skirt, an ozonator, and we use a mineral stick. In most cases this amount of overkill is not needed, but it can be a little insurance against the occasional group of guests that really push sanitation to the limit, with heavy spa use.

The spa filter cartridge should be replaced every 6 months in a heavily used spa, or at least that’s the schedule we keep. We buy 6 at a time, and keep them stocked at the property. Same with the mineral sticks, which gets replaced at the same time.

Draining Schedule

We have a formula that we use to calculate when to drain the spa, based on the number of guests, but we also try to tell whether or not the spa has seen heavy use. The water level is always a good indicator, since most guests will never add water. If the water level is close to the level where we always leave it at, and other indicators don’t point to heavy spa use, we don’t drain the spa after each guest, but we vacuum, clean the filter, balance the chemistry and shock the spa.

However, in order to maintain a sanitary spa in your rental, you should drain and refill the spa if it looks like your guests really enjoyed it! Our spa gets drained about every month, but sometimes twice per month, if the unit has seen heavy usage, or if we rent to snowboarders (jk, lol).

Spa Safety

First off, the spa should be isolated on your property. If there are adjacent town homes or condos, a safety fence should be built around the patio, to cordon off the spa, and also add some privacy.

Secondly, a covered spa is always safer than an uncovered spa. Make sure your cover clips and straps are in good shape. A spa cover lifter should be installed to protect your spa cover and prevent guest injury.

Third, our Spa Rules sign makes these specific restrictions:

  1. Children under 14 with Adults only
  2. No single use, 2-4 people only
  3. No alcohol or drugs
  4. No pregnant women
  5. No Hypertensive people

Fourth, keep all spa chemicals safely stored, and out of the reach of children.

Fifth, make sure that your spa is in good electrical condition, without any chance of accidental electrocution.

What’s a Spa Worth?

Adding a spa or hot tub to your rental property will add another recreational element to your offerings, and will allow you to charge a premium – to at least cover the additional costs and maintenance involved. In our case, our property management company raised their price a set amount, and we have figured out our annual expenses for the spa. From there, we were able to figure out a fair amount to add to a night’s rental, which has by now, over the last 10 years ~ paid for the spa many times over!

 

Carolyn Mosby
Hot Tub Works

 

Hot Tub Parts: Ozonator Parts

January 27th, 2014 by

ozone-molecule

Ozone is used in spas and hot tubs for sanitation and disinfection purposes. It’s widely known to be the world’s most powerful sanitizer, and when combined with good filtration, can almost provide all of your spa sanitation needs.

But alas – ozone is not a stand-alone sanitizer. Many people with an aversion to chlorine or bromine supplement their spa ozonator with a mineral purifier and non-chlorine shocking. You can also use ozone with about half of the bromine or chlorine normally required.

Ozone systems are fairly simple devices, and thus can be simply understood by most people, which makes troubleshooting easier. This article is about the ozonator parts that may be needed in common spa ozone repairs.

There are two types of ozonators for spas – Ultraviolet systems (UV) and Corona Discharge (CD) systems. UV systems create ozone by using an ultraviolet light bulb, which converts oxygen molecules (O2) into ozone molecules (O3).

Corona discharge ozonators create ozone by using a small electric charge through the air, which also converts O2 into O3. CD systems can outperform UV systems in ozone output by a factor of four, and with far less energy consumption.

Is My Ozonator Working?

Fair enough question – ozonators work silently with the usual exception of a small stream of champagne bubbles coming from one of the spa returns. Your unit should have an indicator light, or you may be able to smell the ozone gas if you remove the discharge hose. There is a spa ozone test available that you can use if you want to check the spa for the presence of ozone. Ozonators don’t last very long however, most UV systems need a new bulb within 2 years, and for newer CD ozonators, it can be shorter and can require a new CD chip every 12-18 months.

Which Type of Ozonator Do I Have?

SideTypicalUVCD

Most CD ozonators tend to be boxy units, with a hose than connects to an injection fitting, or a larger injection manifold. UV ozonators tend to be long and cylindrical, housing a long UV tube bulb. They will also have a hose to inject the ozone gas from the generator unit into the water stream. UV systems can also be identified by their strange blue glow.

To buy parts for an ozonator, you’ll need to know the brand, or more specifically – the make and model. The easiest way to ID your spa ozonator, is to look closely for the label that’s on the unit. A flashlight and maybe reading glasses will be necessary.

Repair or Replace?

repair-or-replace your spa ozonator

It’s not uncommon, with the low price of spa ozonators nowadays, for spa owners to just replace an ozonator with new, for less than $100. So consider that an option, after obtaining your ozonator make and model. Every two years or less, order the exact replacement model. Switching to a different model could require plumbing in a new mixing chamber or injection manifold, which is usually not a big job, but may require draining of the spa.

Common Spa Ozone Parts

If you do want to make your own ozonator repairs, you can save a few dollars in the process. Spa ozone problems usually boil down to either ozone production or ozone delivery. Either not enough is being made, and you need a new UV bulb or CD chip – or the air pump, air hose, check valve, or injectors have clogged or failed.

The most common spa and hot tub ozone parts fall into one of these categories.

Ozone  Injection Manifolds

If the ozone bubbles cease in your spa, but when you remove the hose from the injector fitting you can smell it, you have a clogged or failed injector or manifold. Or you may have a clogged or failed check valve within the ozone hose.

spa-ozonator-manifoldMost modern spas and hot tubs will use a 3/4 inch injector, threaded on both ends, which connects to a dedicated ozone line or to the heater pipe. The internal injector can become clogged. Replacing the cap will usually fix your ozone trouble, or you can replace the entire injector assembly.spa-manifold

Larger inground spas or pools will use a 1.5 or 2.0 inch manifold that plumbs into the return line or a dedicated ozone line. These allow excess water pressure to bypass the ozone mixing chamber. Repairs to these larger manifolds are usually limited to replacing the injection fitting.

Ozone Diffusers

dimension-one-diffuserA diffuser is device that diffuses the ozone gas, creating smaller bubbles which allows it to come into contact with a greater number of contaminants. It’s commonly attached to the end of the ozone hose, and is most common on older, over-the-wall hot tub ozonators. Prozone and Dimension One are two ozone systems that use a diffuser

Air Pumps

Not so common on most modern spa ozonators, but a few dimension one ozone systems use a small air pump to inject the ozone gas into the pipe. These can be external mounts, or more commonly mount inside of the ozone unit. If your bubbles quit coming, check that manual air valves are closed, which could reduce suction. Replacing an inline check valve, the small one-way flow valve within the clear ozone hose is a very common spa ozone repair.

UV Lamps & CD Chips

spa-cd-chips-uv-bulbsAs mentioned above, neither of these items last for long. When the bulb quits working that can be obvious, as you no longer see the strange blue light. Most UV bulbs will last for 2-3 years. For a CD system, each CD chip is rated for a certain number of hours, so you could do the math. Running a CD system daily will usually give it an average lifespan of about 2 years. Larger ozonators using a CD electrode can be in service longer, usually around 3-5 years.

Hose and Clamps

Ozone tubing or hose will eventually dry out and deteriorate from the ozone, becoming brittle and discolored. Generally speaking, it will need replacement every year or two. In a pinch, you can use hose from Home Depot, but it won’t last as long as the manufacturer ozone hose.

Replace your clamps every few years as well to prevent them from cracking and the hose slipping off of either end. Loop and hang the hose in such a way so that it won’t crimp or bend.

Renewal Kitscd-renewal-kit

A renewal kit is an ozonator repair kit, made to fit Del ozonators. They typically include hose, fittings, check valve, CD chip and hose clamps. They come with full instructions and is a rapid renewal, only taking 15-20 minutes to replace these spa parts.

If you have any questions with troubleshooting your spa ozonator or finding the correct ozone parts, you can always call or email our spa tech supporters!

 

Happy Hot Tubbin’

Daniel Lara
Hot Tub Works

 

The Secret to Hot Tub Water Chemistry

December 9th, 2013 by

snake-oil-salesman

 

The secret to spa and hot tub chemistry? It’s not sold in a bottle, or a fancy egg shaped container. It’s not a magical potion that you drop into the spa, or pour in once a month.

My friends, listen closely – the secret to clean and clear hot tub water is a multi-faceted approach. It’s may not be easy, and it’s not especially rapid, but it’s truly a miracle.

Come closer, I want to whisper the secret to hot water perfection. The secret is …

“TEST AND BALANCE YOUR SPA WATER CHEMISTRY WITH REGULARITY”

 

Of course, you also need good filtration, with a relatively new spa filter cartridge. Replace every 12-24 mos. And, you also need to run the filter pump every day. I run my spa circulation pump 24 hrs per day.

Testing Spa Water?

Most people just use spa test strips, and they are a lot simpler to use than the dropper type of spa test kits. If you want greater accuracy, you can use the Tru Test digital test strip reader, which is great for those with poor eyesight or some level of color blindness. Use a spa test strip that will test not only for pH and bromine, but also for calcium hardness and total alkalinity. I recommend the 6-in-1 test strips by AquaChek.

Balanced Spa Water?

“Balanced” spa water essentially means that your pH, Alkalinity and Calcium Hardness are within the proper range. Adjusting the levels should go hand in hand with testing. Use a pH decreaser if your pH or alkalinity is too high. If your calcium hardness is too high, as it is in many parts of the country, use Calcium Control.

Sanitation is also a very important part of water balance. Keep a consistent sanitizer (bromine or chlorine) level in your spa. Augmenting it with minerals or ozone will make the water more forgiving of slip ups or occasional low sanitizer levels. Use spa shock after every use to kill bacteria.

That’s it – that’s the secret. Test and Balance, with regularity. But you probably knew that already…

 

Carolyn Mosby
Hot Tub Works

 

 

The Chlorine Free Spa – Is it Possible?

July 22nd, 2013 by

no-chlorine

It’s a common question that we get in our call center – can I run my spa (or hot tub) without chlorine? My quick and smart answer is usually “sure, you can use bromine!” Then they say “isn’t that the same thing?” It’s not really, as bromine has less of a smell, is not quite as harsh on skin and hair, and has other advantages over chlorine.

But seriously – the real answer is Yes!, you can run your spa without chlorine, or bromine, and still have a safe and sanitary spa. It requires using some modified methods, to make sure that pathogens don’t thrive – but it can be successfully done. Here’s how.

 

Replace your Filter Cartridge More Frequently

For most spas under halogen treatment (chlorine or bromine), I recommend that the spa filter cartridge be replaced every 12-24 months, depending on it’s size, and on how much the spa is used. For those who wish to go chlorine free in the spa or hot tub, I’d recommend that you double the frequency, and replace your spa filter every 6-12 months.

Some spa filters are available with more square footage. When you search for a replacement spa filter, by dimensions, model number or cartridge number, you may see two spa filters listed that have the same dimensions, but one costs more. The more expensive spa cart will have more pleats and thus more surface area, which will do a better job of filtering.

Drain your Spa or Hot Tub More Frequently

Draining the water out of your spa should be done every 4-6 months, depending on your rate of usage, or if the water goes bad. For those using a non-chlorine method in the spa, increase the frequency to every 2- 3 months, or at least every 4 months.

When draining a non-chlorine spa, be sure to use a Spa Purge product to remove any build up inside the pipes, hoses and jets of your spa. Without a halogen residual, biofilms can form faster and create a bio-hazard in your spa water. I use Jet Clean every other time that I drain my spa, to keep organics and oils from building up in hidden crevices.

Ozone + Minerals

DEL Ozone MCD-50, it's what I use on my spa

For a spa that doesn’t use chlorine or bromine, you need something to kill bather waste and bacteria. My recommendation is to use a spa ozonator and a mineral sanitizer, like Nature2 or Spa Frog. The combination of these two – an ozone sanitizer and a mineral purifier, takes care of most disease causing bacteria.

Check on your ozonator regularly to be sure that it’s on and operational, and replace the mineral cartridge as directed, to keep a proper amount of silver and copper ions working. These two treatments working together will do most of the job in keeping your spa water healthy.

Non-Chlorine Shock

cense

Ozone + Minerals do most of the job, but to be sure, you need to oxidize the water, or shock the spa. Non-chlorine shock has no odor, and does not affect water chemistry. You can use the spa immediately after treating the water.

My recommendation is to use a few tablespoons of non-chlorine shock after every spa use, or at least weekly to control and destroy any pathogenic microbes that are able to get around the ozone and mineral treatment.  Also known as MPS, Zodiac Cense is a great product that will oxidize quickly and also adds a nice scent to the water.

Keep your Spa Water Balanced

This is important no matter what your spa sanitation method is, but especially when you are operating a chlorine free spa or hot tub. Maintain your pH level at 7.2-7.5, your Alkalinity at 80-120 and your Hardness at 180-220. Use fresh test strips or fresh reagents and test your spa water at least twice per week, adding water balance chemicals as needed.

Shower before using the Spa

please-showerI know some people (ok, I’ve done it too) who treat their hot tub like a big bathtub. After working in the yard all day, or dancing all night – they jump in the spa to “clean off”. Well, when you bring perspiration, body oils, make up, or if you’ve gone to the bathroom (#2), without washing yourself, this creates a large sanitizer demand in the water.

I’m not saying you must always shower before using the spa, but if you don’t – be sure to give it a good shocking afterwards with MPS.

It can be awkward to ask your friends to shower before coming over, so using an Enzyme product can help break down oils and organics and retain healthy spa water that all can enjoy.

And that’s it! You can successfully operate a healthy spa or hot tub without using chlorine and bromine, if you follow these steps above.

 

- Jack

 

 

Identify Your Spa Part or Hot Tub Part

March 24th, 2011 by

spa pumps and motors

 

One of the hardest things about selling spa parts for the spa industry is that there are 1,000s upon 1,000s of spa parts from all kinds of different manufacturers. Because of this, it has been very difficult to have all of those parts listed on our site.

In most circumstances, however, we can get you the spa part you need, even when you can’t find it on our website, or even on any website.For example. most Hot Springs, Sundance, Jacuzzi, and Balboa parts aren’t listed on our site but we have extensive catalogs and databases we can use to locate these parts for you.

Another place on our site that doesn’t always have every part listed is the Spa Jet section. Most jets come in a variety of colors and textures. Because of that we don’t have the ability to have all of these jets on our site but if you happen to be in this section and find a jet that looks similar to yours but perhaps isn’t the right color don’t hesitate to call in or send us an email. Most likely we will have the jet that you need available.

We can even obtain parts officially de-listed as Obsolete, when stock still exists in distribution. Many times, a comparable part used and made by a different manufacturer may work for older, de-listed and obsolete spa parts.

And then there are just those hot tub parts that are from smaller manufacturers, from very old spas or maybe you just don’t know where to look. The best thing to do in those situations is to email us a picture along with the measurements and any numbers that happen to be listed on the part. From there our experienced technicians and staff should be able to match the part for you.

So again – if you’re looking for a hot tub part, no matter how rare, or difficult it is to find – we are here to help you find the correct spa parts – fast!

HOT-TUB-PARTS

Installing a Spa or Hot Tub Ozone Injector

March 18th, 2011 by

One of the greatest items to ever come out for a hot tub has to be a spa ozonator. They have the ability to kill the majority of the bacteria in the water as well as significantly reduce the amount of other chemicals that have to be used in the water. The only problem is that it is very difficult to disperse the O3 gas into the system if you aren’t pre plumbed for ozone.

We were getting so many calls for this that we actually built a spa ozone injector kit that will allow the ozone to be injected into the water in a way that is even more effective than if your spa was actually pre plumbed for ozone. If you have 1.5 plumbing you would use part # HTW-OIM15 and if you have 2 inch plumbing you would use part # HTW-OIM2.

To install the spa injector kit, locate a length of pipe AFTER the filter and heater where you install the manifold in an upright position, as shown below. It measures approximately 15″ long and 5″ tall, so you need a clear section of pipe that’s around 16″ that you can cut into. In cases where there is no room, you may have to reroute the return line slightly, to create the space needed for the ozone manifold.ozone-injection-manifold

After locating a suitable location, all you do is cut the ozone venturi manifold (shown above) into your plumbing with a hacksaw. The pipe that is cut out should be about 3″ shorter than the overall length of the manifold, so the pipe will slip into both ends of the manifold, 1.5″ on each side.

Use pipe cleaner or primer and then glue the manifold in place with fresh PVC glue. Connect your new spa ozonator hose to the injector and you’re ready to go. The Ozonator unit should be mounted somewhere nearby, in reach of the ozone hose.

I get calls all the time where people are asking for an ozonator and they don’t even realize that it has to be pre plumbed and you could hear the defeat in their voice when I ask. But then when I tell them we have a device that will allow them to use the ozonator you could hear them perk up again. It’s a good feeling to know that we could help people find what they are looking for when they don’t even know they needed it.

So if you ever have any questions about ozone or the different ozone systems or injection manifolds that we have available – don’t hesitate to call, we at www.hottubworks.com are here to help you out.

~ Nicholas

 

Titanium Heater Elements and Ozone Seals

March 11th, 2011 by

Some spa and hot tub manufacturers are offering Ozone generators and/or Salt Water systems to sanitize the water. Although beneficial to water quality, salt and ozone can be detrimental to equipment like standard heater elements and standard pump seals.

To combat this I suggest you use Titanium heater elements and Salt/Ozone pump seals; which are more resistant than the standard versions to the corrosive effects of ozone and salt.

Flothru Heater Element

These heater elements are more expensive, being made from Titanium and all… but if you’re replacing a standard element every 1-2 years, there can be a quick payback in a few years. The ozone grade pump shaft seals are only a few dollars more than standard grade.

So, if your spa heating element look deteriorated and corroded, and you use salt and/or ozone to sanitize, my recommendation is to replace with a version that can withstand the salts in the water.

If your shaft seal is failing, and you use ozone in the water, look for a softening and puckering of the rubber portions of the shaft seal, or possibly corrosion on the spring portion.

To All of You out There Thank You! If I Were There, I’d Hug Ya!

March 3rd, 2011 by

big-hug for our customers

I have been a customer service representative at Hot Tub Works for almost 5 years and I love what I do. However a good portion of the job is helping customers who have had a less than ideal situation (example: a damaged package delivered) and may be upset when calling in.

It is a wonderful feeling to offer a solution and bring the old fashioned “over the top” customer service into reality and turn a potentially bad experience into a good one for our customers.

Our honest desire to make your experience with Hot Tub Works enjoyable from beginning to end usually surprises people and I absolutely love it when they call in or email us about their experience in genuine “over the top” customer service.

To all of you out there thank you! If I were there, I’d hug ya!

Lietta

Ozone and Minerals for Spas & Hot Tubs

February 17th, 2011 by

ozoneMineral Sanitizers (Nature2, Frog Floating System, Sundance Spas Sunpurity, Hot Spring AG Mineral Purifier) is offered as an alternative sanitation system for spas and pools, with promises of cleaner water without the drawbacks of chlorine. However, these Mineral Sanitizers recognize that they do not oxidize all the organics that a spa may contain, so it recommends using its product ‘Cense’ as the required oxidizer (a version of MSP, or monopersulfate).

We have nothing against MSP, but why not have the best oxidizer you can have, without adding ANY more chemicals? It’s not just DEL saying this. Here’s the assessment of freedrinkingwater.com:

What is Ozone for Spas?

“Ozone, fed into the water continuously by an Ozone generator, is the strongest oxidizer for pool [or spa] water treatment. …Ozone has a minimal effect on pH and water chemistry.”

The bottom line for spa and pool disinfection is that ozone is the strongest, broad-spectrum oxidizer that can be delivered simply and reliably. Ozone combines well with Mineral Sanitizers (Nature2, Frog Floating System, Sundance Spas Sunpurity, Hot Spring AG Mineral Purifier) minerals to cover the gaps in sanitation left by Mineral Sanitizers alone.

What is a Mineral Sanitizer?

Mineral Sanitizers are a “mineral bed” that is installed in your spa circulation to deposit silver and copper ions into the water to kill bacteria and algae, respectively. This is distinct from ionizing systems because the minerals are deposited through the flow of water through a cartridge rather than an electrical ionization process. Mineral Sanitizers shares some benefits with Ozone in that neither of them relies on excessive use of chemicals like chlorine that can have harmful byproducts when used at high enough doses to be effective.

Is Ozone and a Mineral Sanitizer Your Best Option?

No disinfection system is perfect, but if your criteria are for a simple and effective disinfection routine that produces clean, fresh smelling water with minimal harmful byproducts, start with Ozone. Whether you choose to supplement it with Mineral Sanitizers (Nature2, Frog Floating System, Sundance Spas Sunpurity, Hot Spring AG Mineral Purifier) or a small residual level of chlorine, you will be able to maintain fresh, safe water in your spa.

We have traditionally recommended a strong Ozone system coupled with a small residual amount of chlorine (maintained at about 3 ppm for spas, depending on your typical usage) for a simple, low cost way to keep spa water pure. The chemicals and the tests they need are widely available and understood. But if a Mineral Sanitizer appeals to you, we know it can also work.

Thanks;

Jerry