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Archive for the ‘spa chemicals’ Category

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Draining your Spa or Hot Tub Correctly

May 16th, 2013 by

draining the spaDraining, or emptying your spa or hot tub, is necessary every 2-4 months, to reduce the amount of dissolved solids in the spa, and any germs or “baddies” that may have built up some resistance to the spa chemicals.

Draining is also sometimes preferable to intensive shock treatment, which can be harmful over time to spa seals and finishes. I prefer to drain more often, and use fewer harsh chemicals, when possible.

There are some considerations for draining a hot tub, including: local water restrictions, spa water chemistry and in some areas – water discharge regulations. If you plan to leave the spa drained for an extended period of time, I have some tips below for that too.

When to Drain A Spa or Hot Tub

Spas with very high use, commercial or public spas, may need to drain every few days to keep maintain water health. For private spas or hot tubs, with say, 9 spa sessions per week (3 users, 3x weekly), your spa water will last longer, up to 4 months between changes.

Some spa owners will drain for persistent cloudy water, or after a heavy use weekend by many people, or if they’ve managed to let the spa “go” – for some time without sanitation or filtration. I’ve drained my spa for all of these reasons at one time or another – otherwise, it’s every 3 or 4 months. thinking-guy-left

“When in doubt, drain it”, is my usual advice, or when the spa chemistry is really bad – “water is cheaper than chemicals!”, is something I might say.

How to Drain A Spa or Hot Tub

Before draining the spa, or at least twice per year, use a Spa Purge type chemical to remove biofilm and hidden “funk and gunk”. If you’ve never use one of these spa pipe cleaners, you’ll be amazed at the amount of gross, brown bio-gunk that it foams to the surface. Spa Purge is a name of one spa biofilm remover, I get great results using Jet Clean, which is a lot cheaper.

After circulating Jet Clean for around an hour, I am ready to drain the spa. Some spas have a handy external spigot to connect the hose, but mine is inside, and not in the most convenient location. After hooking up a permanent hose of the perfect length, I now just reach inside the cabinet and pull out the hose.

Shut off the Power. At the main switch, so your equipment timer won’t turn the pumps on during the drain and refill.

Gravity Draining with a hose takes some time, my spa takes about 3 hours to drain. I come out every hour and move the hose to a new location in my backyard. You can also use a small submersible pump, like a pool cover pump, to drain the spa in 15-30 minutes. When it’s about halfway down, I spray down the exposed walls with my garden hose, and again when empty.

Spa Siphon – If you have no spa drain spigot, and no utility pump, you could drain by siphon, if you have an area nearby that is lower than the hot tub. Duct tape a Crescent wrench to the end of a hose and place it in the bottom of the spa. Starting at the point where the hose comes out of the water, push the hose straight into the water, and coiling it underwater. Fill the entire hose up in this manner, and then cap the end of the hose with your thumb and quickly pull the hose to an elevation lower than the spa floor. Release your thumb and water should begin to flow.

Spa Water Use and Hot Tub Discharge Restrictions

Drought is a real reality in areas across the country. If your city is experiencing severe drought, it may put in place mandatory water restrictions, that may restrict draining and refilling your spa or hot tub.

In addition to this, most cities and towns have some regulations regarding how to discharge or drain a spa, hot tub or pool. Here are some general guidelines, your city may be different.

  • Water should have a balanced pH level
  • Sanitizer level should be very low
  • Don’t pump to the Sewer, but “Infiltrate” around the yard
  • Don’t pump near any streams or tributaries

Leaving your Spa Drained for an Extended Period

Wooden hot tubs will dry out without water in them, so it is not recommended to leave them dry for longer than a few days, just long enough for repairs or relocation.

If you know you will be unable to maintain a non-wood spa for months at a time, it will be best to drain it, to prevent biofilm and bacteria build-up.

wetdryvacAs the spa is nearly drained, turn on the blower, to clear out the lines (you may want to put the spa cover on first!). Use a powerful wet/dry vac to blow air through the pipes – from the skimmer and spa jets. A small air compressor can also be used, (with low pressure), connected into the pump drain plug. This is important, to prevent standing water from developing into a bacterial mess, inside of the hoses or equipments. The same process is used to winterize a spa or hot tub.

Remove the drain plugs from the equipment, and leave all drains open. Remove the spa filter and store indoors. Wipe down the inside of the spa, with a  sponge or towel to remove any remaining water. Put on your spa cover on to keep it clean.

 

Carolyn Mosby
Hot Tub Works

 

 

 

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Prevent Waterborne Illness in your Spa or Hot Tub

May 6th, 2013 by

healthy-spa-water

“Recreational Water Illness” is a term used to describe the effects of different pathogens that can survive and thrive in pools and spas.

According to the CDC, “Recreational water illnesses (RWI’s) are caused by germs spread by swallowing, breathing in mists or aerosols of, or having contact with contaminated water in swimming pools, hot tubs, water parks, water play areas, interactive fountains, lakes, rivers, or oceans”.

Of course, in this discussion, I’ll focus on preventing RWI’s in hot tubs and spas.

RWI’s IN HOT TUBS & SPAS

The two largest Recreational Water Illnesses that we see in poorly maintained spas and hot tubs are Pseudomonas and Cryptosporidium. The first is a form of dermatitis, or skin inflammation (a rash), and the second is a germ that causes diarrhea.

Pseudomonas Aeruginosa

Pseudomonas is sometimes referred to as “Hot Tub Rash”, although I don’t particularly like that term! It is a form of bacterium that is present everywhere in nature. It is naturally occurring in soil, air and in all bodies of water. It produces a red rash, with small dots to the size of a pea, which resemble chicken pox. Hot tub folliculitis can be painful and is quite itchy, similar to poison ivy. The rash usually lasts about 7 to 10 days, but can leave marks on the skin for several months. Antibiotics and ointments may be prescribed in some cases. The extent of the rash depends on the length of exposure; those who soak longer in an infected tub may display more acute symptoms.

Cryptosporidium

Crypto, as it’s known for short, is one of the most common Recreational Water Illnesses, and is spread through Fecal matter. It has a hard outer shell that makes it incredibly resistant to environmental factors, including chlorination. It can survive days in chlorinated water, until a sufficient oxidation potential is reached with bromine and/or ozone treatment. Crypto can remain in the lower intestine for up to five weeks, and can be transmitted from the feces of an infected person to a new host.

PREVENTION OF RWI’s IN HOT TUBS

For most of you reading this, you’ll never have to worry yourself about these germs and bacteria in your home hot tub. Public pool and spas, with large bather loads are the more likely place you can pick up one of these water illnesses.

With spas and hot tubs, we filter, circulate and treat with sanitizer, to prevent bacterial colonies from forming. Let me say that again – In hot tubs, we control Pseudomonas and other germs – with proper Filtration, Circulation and Sanitation. RWI’s only survive and thrive in poorly maintained spas and hot tubs.

I should also say that Crypto, in particular, is primarily released in the spa from users that don’t shower thoroughly before using the spa. We all know, toilet paper doesn’t get everything – and if you go into the spa with a dirty behind, and you are infected, you will release the germs into the hot tub. The germs can be absorbed by others by water that gets into their mouth, nose or eyes, or even through small cuts on the skin.

Adding an additional form of spa sanitation, such as ozone or mineral sanitizers, can aid your primary sanitizer (Bromine or Chlorine, or Biguanides) in fending off the onslaught of bacteria that escalates quickly when several adults get into the tub, and the sanitizer level takes a nose dive.

Protect Your Spa

  1. Keep a constant residual of sanitizer in the tub, at a high enough level to control Pseudomonas. Chlorine – 2-4 ppm, Bromine – 4-6 ppm.
  2. Limit guests to 30 minutes per soak, and no more than the recommended user load. Shock the spa after use, or at least twice per month.
  3. Drain and Refill your hot tub every 3 months, or 30 uses, whichever comes first.
  4. Filter your Spa continuously and effectively. It should never stagnate longer than a few hours.
  5. Clean your spa filter regularly, and replace the cartridge every 12-24 months.

Protect Yourself & Others

  1. Take hot showers before using the spa, being sure to wash “thoroughly”.
  2. Don’t drink the water! Remember “Montezuma’s Revenge?” Same thing.
  3. Shower after using a public pool or spa, and remove wet swim clothes.
  4. Don’t use a pool or spa if the water quality looks questionable, or there are too many users.
  5. Don’t use a pool or spa if you have had diarrhea in the last two weeks.

You can prevent Recreational Water Illnesses by following the tips above, in your own spa, and in your water activities outside of the home. Have questions? Leave a comment below.

Happy Hot Tubbin’

Daniel Lara
Hot Tub Works

 

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Is Bio-Film Lurking in your Hot Tub?

April 15th, 2013 by

BioFilm in spas and hot tubsWarning: Unpleasant subject coming up! This post is about biofilm bacteria that can form in the plumbing and equipment of spas and hot tubs.

The good news is that biofilm is removable (in most cases) and preventable. But first, we have to know more about the hidden bacteria BIOFILM.

What is BioFilm?

According to the BioFilms: The Hypertextbook

“A biofilm is composed of living, reproducing microorganisms, such as bacteria, that exist as a colony, or community. In other words, biofilms are alive and have a complex social structure that scientists and engineers are still trying to unravel, a structure that both protects them and allows them to grow.” Alfred B. Cunningham, John E. Lennox, and Rockford J. Ross

Biofilms are naturally occurring, everywhere. Algae on your hot tub walls is also a biofilm, but were not talking about algae in the pipes, this is more of a mixture of bacteria with solids, oils and other organic matter. Ewww, I warned you!

Today’s aboveground spas have lots of plumbing pipe, running to numerous spa jets all around the shell. Most have well over 100 feet of pipe. The interior surfaces, never getting a wipe down, develops a film of solids that coats the pipes, or finds other areas to attach itself, inside almost every part of the spa that you don’t see.

Some Jetted Tubs, common in today’s high end master bathrooms, are especially vulnerable to biofilm formation. They are used briefly, without sanitizer, and then drained until the next use. If all of the water does not drain from pipes and pumps, and it’s common that it does not – all sorts of things can grow.

Where does Biofilm come From?

Biofilm can form in spas that have been sitting unused, either full of water or drained, but still with water in the pipes. Biofilm can also come from active, normal use of your hot tub. Our own dead skin cells, body oils, cosmetics and other organic matter are used as building blocks by biofilm, as they establish colonies in low turbulence areas of your circulation system, and attach to surfaces when the pump shuts off.

Spas that are maintained poorly, such as those with old filter cartridges, or the sanitizer – not enough, inconsistent or incorrect use of (don’t use pool tablets!), or water not balanced and not shocked regularly – these practices can also lead to biofilm formation. Also, spas that have high usage, hot tubbin’ every night, with many users – can have fast colony formations, if the spa sanitation and filtration is lacking.

Even new spas can come with biofilm from the factory, although most reputable manufacturers sanitize and air dry the piping now after water testing, to ensure that while sitting in storage they are not breeding grounds for bacteria.

Used spas? You may find a low price on a used spa, but if it’s been used and abused, or neglected, it could have a big problem with biofilm inside of the pipes and equipment. I hear of this happening all the time.

Testing for Biofilm

It’s almost impossible to test for and identify as well. It’s nearly microscopic in it’s young stages. If you can empty the spa, a Q-tip swabbed inside of a few jets, main drain, the filter body or inside the pump drain plug may turn up some funny colors.

If you can disassemble part of your spa jets, you can inspect inside for any thin layers of oily or slimy substances, usually in a brownish shade. Spas with a scum ring that develops around the water line or behind the spa pillows, may have a biofilm problem.

In my earlier days of spa scrapping, I have cut up old and neglected spas for refurbishing, where all of the pipes, jets, equipment, everything – is full of a slimy film. Really unpleasant, and unfortunate, as we would have to cut all of it out, down to the spa shell, and replumb the whole spa with new pipe, fittings, jets and spa pack to restore such spas.

Biofilm in Spas

  • Reduces pipe diameter in acute cases
  • Consumes Sanitizer, affects pH and spa balance
  • Can harbor harmful bacteria colonies
  • Causes foaming and water problems

Removal of Biofilm in Hot Tubs

Spa Shock – First, lower the spa pH to 7.2, and lower the spa temperature to an unheated state. “Super Shock” the spa with a 4x normal shock dosage of non-chlorine spa shock. In extreme cases, it may be necessary to shock the spa with even more, to kill the bacteria and weaken the organism.

Spa Flush – Use a Spa Flush product, such as Rendezvous Spa Rinse or Leisure Time Jet Clean. Just pour in 1 pint and circulate the spa for an hour and then drain the spa. These products break apart the biofilm, from every hidden area.

Spa Rinse – Give the spa another additional rinse and flush with your garden hose. Spray water into every jet and orifice that the nozzle will fit into. Drain remaining water and refill the hot tub. Balance the chemistry and begin sanitation and filtration.

Replace your spa filter cartridge, to be sure that bacteria is not hiding deep in the pleats of the spa filter.

Prevention of Biofilm in Hot Tubs

  • Change the water every 3-6 months – based on frequency and number of users
  • Use Spa Rinse or Jet Clean every time you drain the spa
  • Maintain proper water balance and continual sanitizer level
  • Replace your spa filter cartridge every 12-24 months
  • Shock the spa or hot tub after heavy use, or twice per month
  • If you drain the spa or jetted tub and don’t refill immediately, use air to blow the pipes dryBiofilms-hot-tub-bacteria

 

BIOFILM – sounds like a bad fifties movie, but it’s real. If you maintain your spa well, you’ll have nothing to fear – as long as you are using a Spa Flush product regularly to strip the pipes and hidden interior spaces of oily, grimy, slimy, mucky, yucky BioFilm!

 

Happy Hot Tubbin’

Daniel Lara
Hot Tub Works

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Spa Water Chemistry – Test and Balance

April 2nd, 2013 by

hot-tubs-chemicalsTesting your spa water regularly is the best way to really understand your water chemistry. It’s always changing, your water chemistry – and usually very rapidly, when 3 or 4 adults jump into 500 gallons of water.

” Balanced spa water” means that your pH, Alkalinity and Calcium Hardness levels are correct. Each of these 3 can need adjustment, but in terms of stability – Hardness stays fairly stable, followed by Alkalinity. pH can have the quickest and widest swings in level, so pay especially close attention to your spa pH levels.

Testing Spa Water

Test strips are the most convenient way to test spa water, in part because anyone can use them – without much instruction. Even my 4 yr old grand daughter can test the hot tub! Just dip and swirl, then compare the colors – it’s almost fun!

I use the AquaChek “Red” test strips, and check the water nearly every other day, or at least 3 times per week. These spa strips test for Bromine, pH, Alkalinity and Hardness – everything I need. digital-strip-tester

The AquaChek Digital Strip Reader is great for us older folks with tired eyes, or maybe for my color blind husband (who claims he isn’t). Just dip the strip and then insert it into the strip reader. Colormetric scanner determines the reading, and displays an exact digital readout of your spa water chemistry levels.

When your spa water is not in balance, your sanitizer is unable to work effectively, and algae and bacteria may thrive. Besides helping to keep your spa water safe and sanitary, balanced water also protects your spa shell and equipment from scaling or corrosive water conditions.

Test your Spa! It’s the only way to know what is too low and what is too high. Test your hot tub every time you use it, or at least once per week.

Balancing Spa Water

After testing the spa water, adjust your Calcium Hardness levels first. If your water is very soft (less than 150 ppm), you should add a small amount of hardness increaser (Calcium Chloride) to the hot tub. This buffers the water, and can help prevent spa foaming. Next, adjust your Alkalinity level, if it’s outside of the range of 80-120 ppm. Add baking soda (Sodium Bicarbonate) to increase it, or use a pH decreaser chemical (an acid) to lower Alkalinity.hot-tub-chemistry

With calicum hardness (Ca) and alkalinity (Alk) levels correct, move on to pH. When pH is too high (above 7.6), your sanitizer is very weak and sluggish. When the pH is too low (below 7.0), the bromine is very effective, but the water is dangerously close to acidic range. Over time, acidic water can be corrosive to the spa finish, spa filters and to your spa heater. Add pH increaser or pH decreaser, to keep your hot tub pH level in the 7.2-7.4 range.

Finally, with the spa water balanced, we can address the sanitizer level, and make any adjustments necessary, and shock the spa. It’s always important to have balanced water first, before boosting bromine, or shocking the spa.

How Much Water is in my Hot Tub? To adjust your spa chemical balance carefully, you need to know how much water is in the spa, so that you can add the proper amount of spa balance chemicals. If you know the make and model, find the specifications sheet online for “water capacity”. If you can’t locate this information, you can calculate your spa’s capacity by measuring your garden hose flow rate, and then monitoring how many minutes it takes to fill the spa. To do this, time how long it takes to fill a bucket of known size. If your hose takes 1 minute to fill a 2 gallon bucket, for instance – and it takes 150 minutes to fill the spa – you can deduce that your spa holds 300 gallons.

For hot tub adjustment chemicals, see our Hot Tub Chemicals section. When you maintain water balance in your spa, you won’t need so many other chemicals. Not only that, but hot tub maintenance is reduced, and your spa components can last longer. Just from testing and balancing your spa water chemistry!

Carolyn Mosby
Hot Tub Works

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Hot Tub Infographic

November 14th, 2012 by

Hot Tub infographics are all the rage now. This is one of the best, made from our friend Matt at SwimUniversity. It covers spa water care, spa filter care, spa water replacement, spa cover care, and finally cabinet and shell care. A full guide to spa and hot tub care. Print it out or pin/post to share the page with your friends!

Spa Care Infographic - hot tub infographic

A Complete Guide to Hot Tub Care by Swim University

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The Importance Of Draining And Cleaning Your Hot Tub

May 21st, 2012 by

When, Why and How to Drain your Spa or Hot Tub

arctic-spas

Would you leave your bathtub filled with water and have everyone in your household use it without ever draining it and replacing the water? I hope the answer is a big fat NO!

It’s gross, to put it bluntly. So you can see why it’s so important to drain and clean your hot tub. Your average size bath tub holds roughly 50 gallons of water. An average size hot tub holds about 400 gallons. There is not a big difference here.

Plus, the water is HOT, hence the term “hot” tub. Hot water is great at extracting our body’s natural…naturalness. Oils, lotions, dirt (yup, dirt), makeup, and all other sorts of things we have on our bodies. This can turn your hot tub into a breeding ground for bad bacteria really fast.

Now, unlike a bathtub, we use chemicals in our hot tubs to keep them from getting…well, like a bathtub. We use sanitation chemicals to kill any forms of bad bacteria in our water. We also keep our water properly balanced (pH and alkalinity) and that helps to keep it clean and sanitized. But even adding all those chemicals won’t be enough. Eventually, you can do no more, and therefore, you must drain.

You should drain your hot tub every 3-4 months, depending on how much and how many people use it.citrabright

Once you drain it out all the way, you should take this opportunity to clean your hot tub manually, like you would wash your car (just don’t use car soap). You can find all the cleaning chemicals you need on Hot Tub Works, and a fresh batch of clean towels. After draining, start off by cleaning the inside shell of the hot tub as best you can. I like using Leisure Time CitraBright to clean the spa shell. Removes water line gunk and dirt, and leaves a nice scent and a high gloss.

Draining time is also a great time to clean your hot tub filters. Again, you can find spa filter cleaner at Hot Tub Works Tubs to really help degrease those filters. Make sure you take this time to check for any fraying. If you see your filters starting to come apart, it’s time to get them replaced.

spa filter cleanerI like to use a spa filter cleaner solution and dilute it with a little water in a bucket and soak the filters for a few hours. After you take them out of the bucket, make sure you give them a very thorough rinse. If you don’t, you may have foam when you start your hot tub up again. Also, it’s recommended to let the spa filter dry completely before putting it back to use.

Once your filters are all clean and your hot tub is wiped down, it’s time to fill it with fresh water. Now that your hot tub is filled, but sure to test and get the right levels of pH and Alkalinity before you take your first dip. And, be sure to add sanitizer to the spa. You wouldn’t want to soak in untreated water.

So, that’s it! You should do this every few months in order to prolong the life of your hot tub and to keep your friends and family safe from any harmful contaminants in the water.

What are you waiting for? Get Tubbin’!

This is a guest post from Matt Giovanisci, the creator of Swim University, online guide to pool and hottubcare. He has over 15 years of experience in the swimming pool and hot tub industry.

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API Spa Covers Hot Tub Covers

August 11th, 2011 by

We have created a new data base for hot tub covers for every brand and model.

Here is the link to all of the API Spas covers by model.

Just click on the name of the model below to go directly to your hot tub cover.

 

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Hot Tub Chemicals

June 21st, 2011 by

Spa and Hot Tub Chemicals

Spa Frog bromine and mineral floaterAfter a tiring day, most people resort to spas as form of relaxation. It is now possible to have your own spa at home. Contrary to popular belief, this is not expensive and it will not take a lot of effort to maintain a spa. Spas and hot tubs offer something enjoyable with quite a number of health benefits that you can get from it as well.

If you have a spa at home, keeping it clean is your number one priority or else it will have a negative effect on your relaxation. The good news is that there are a lot of chemicals that would keep your spa clean.

Using hot tub chemicals is very simple. There are test strips that you can purchase to test the chemicals in the spa. Putting chemicals on the spa will make the water last longer and it could also protect the users from becoming sick since this will kill the bacteria in the water.

Before putting the chemicals in the spa, you will need to know the pH level of the water and the level of alkalinity and calcium hardness. Once the spa water is balanced, you can shock the spa with a non-chlorine or a chlorine oxidizer. After that you will want to run the filter for several hours, to mix up the chemicals.

To keep the water sanitary, most spa owners use bromine or chlorine mini-tabs. Chlorine is cheaper, but stronger smelling and a bit less stable in high pH situations. You can also take advantage of using minerals to help with the sanitation. Frog or Nature2 purifiers for spas allow you to reduce your level of sanitizer.

Spa pH: To examine the PH level of water, use a good test strip. Your spa pH level should be somewhere 7.2 to 7.4. If it is lower, there is pH additive that you can add. On the other hand, if it is too high, there is a pH reducer that you can use. Knowing the calcium hardness is also important as well, so the water is not too hard or too soft. In case it doesn’t reach the recommended level of at least 150 ppm, there are calcium adjusters that you can purchase to raise the calcium level, or harden the water.

Observe the color of the water. If it has a curious shade, it could mean that your spa contains metals. There are metal reducers sold for your spa, that will keep metals in solution, so they don’t stain your spa surfaces.

Aside from adding chemicals to spa water, it is best to clean the hot tub filter regularly. Remember to change the spa water every two months. Clean the filter at least once a month. Perform chemical tests every week, and shock the spa. These steps will help you to keep the spa always clean and sanitary for your users.

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Hot Tub at Playboy Mansion Needs Some Love…

April 18th, 2011 by

Health scare: Playboy bunnies pose under the marquee at the Mansion before the party. Officials have found the Legionella bacteria in a hot tub

Being experts on the subject of hot tub maintenance, I was surprised to see this outbreak come from one the most infamous hot tubs that exist in LA.

It would be real easy to make a moral correlation here but I’ll refrain from the obvious……

Article below.

____________________________________________________________________________________________

Health officials have confirmed that the bacteria that causes Legionnaires’ disease was found in a whirlpool spa at the Playboy Mansion where more than 100 people fell ill in February.

The Los Angeles County Health Department presented its findings on Friday at an annual conference at the Centres for Disease Control in Atlanta. The legionella bacteria also causes a milder illness called Pontiac fever.

Health scare: Playboy bunnies pose under the marquee at the Mansion before the party. Officials have found the Legionella bacteria in a hot tub.
Struck down: Investigators found the bacteria which causes Legionnaires' at the Playboy Mansion after scores of people fel ill on the same day
Struck down: Investigators found the bacteria which causes Legionnaires’ at the Playboy Mansion after scores of people fell ill on the same day
Investigation: 200 guests fell ill after attending a fundraiser at Hugh Hefner’s Playboy Mansion in February

Symptoms, which include fever and headache, are the same as those suffered by the Playboy Mansion partygoers. The people who fell ill were at the mansion to mark the end of the three-day DOMAINFest Global Conference on internet business. The conference took place at the Fairmont Hotel in Santa Monica.

On the second night, there was a party at the Sky Bar on Sunset Boulevard in West Hollywood. The finale on the third night was at Playboy founder Hugh Hefner’s famous mansion. Within 48 hours after leaving it, scores of people reported coming down with symptoms including fever, respiratory problems and violent headaches. About 700 people from 30 countries attended the conference.

DOMAINFest asked people who were at the event to fill out a confidential survey to help in the health department investigation. Officials ended up speaking to 439 people and found that up to 200 of them had a fever and at least one other symptom. Sixty-nine people reported falling ill on the same day.

Something in the air? Public health investigators believe the illness which affected 200 guests may have been spread through the atmospheric fog
Something in the air? Public health investigators believe the illness which affected 200 guests may have been spread through the atmospheric fog. Dr Jonathan Fielding, director of the county Department of Public Health, said that Legionella bacteria are commonly found in moist environments. Pontiac fever, which is caused by bacteria, typically lasts two to five days and treatment is usually unnecessary, ktla.com reports.

The bacteria are not spread from person to person, they are inhaled in water vapor from hot tubs, showers and even air conditioning systems. Some of those who became ill originally suspected a fog machine that was used at the party in February.

A Playboy spokesman said at the time: ‘There is no truth in the rumor that anyone caught anything at the Playboy Mansion, nor is there any evidence. ‘None of the Playboy staff became ill, the deejay was in the middle of the fog and she didn’t get ill. ‘We have been contacted by the Health Department and the Playboy Mansion is cooperating fully with the investigation.’

One partygoer, Elliot J. Silver, said: ‘It is scary that everyone came down with the same thing at the same time. ‘It knocked me on my ass. A lot of people are blaming the Playboy Mansion on the blogs, but you can’t be sure.’

- Legionnaires disease is one of many bacterias that can cause sickness, from improperly sanitized and filtered hot tubs.

Thanks;Jerry

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Why use MPS-Shock In a Spa or Hot Tub

April 15th, 2011 by

One of the most frequently asked questions I get is “why use Non-Chlorine Spa Shock?”

Zodiac Cense - Shock and Aromatherapy in One! - Multi-Pack

In order to answer this question we need to understand what sanitizer does and this will help you understand why it is important to add shock at all.

Sanitizing your spa water is the most important spa maintenance you can do for yourself. Soaking in a spa is like taking a bath however you do not drain the spa when you are done like you would your bath tub. The warm water of hot tubs provides an ideal breeding ground for potentially harmful microorganisms. If we do not maintain an effective sanitizer system to control them, bacteria from our bodies, as well as airborne mold spores, algae, and even viruses can find their way into the water.

A Sanitizer such as Chlorine, Bromine, Nature2 or Spa Frog is used to destroy these microorganisms and keep the spa water safe and healthy. When using a Sanitizer alone the sanitizer has to do two jobs. The first is to destroy microorganisms and the second is to oxidize (burn up) the dead organic material left behind in your water, as well as non-filterable material such as dirt, soap films, hair spray and perspiration. That is a lot of work for the sanitizer to do.

MPS Shock (MonoPeroxySulfate) is a non-chlorine compound that will do the job of oxidizing allowing the sanitizer to do the more important job of destroying the microorganisms. Regardless of which sanitizer you use, shocking is essential for clear, clean hot tub water. It will also allow your sanitizer to perform at peak efficiency.

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