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brian's Posts

Sundance Spa Pumps and Jacuzzi Pumps

June 3rd, 2011 by

Sundance Wet End

 

 

We are now offering a new line of wet-ends called the Piranha that have 8 mounting legs instead of the typical 4 leg style. This will allow you to clock the wet-end into 8 different positions including those 45 degree angles that Sundance and Jacuzzi brand spas used on their models for a number of years.

The wet end for this pump can be adjusted to all these positions, so you can more easily make a replacement to the volute of your spa pump. Reducing the number of 90′s is always a good idea for decreased resistance in your spa system.

Here’s the new offering of Sundance Spa Pumps

PirWE20

Complete Sundance Wet End for 4.0/ 2.0 Hp Pumps.
Contains: front and rear housing, 2.0 Hp impeller, o-ring, seal and screws.  For use on a 48 Frame Pump which Sundance used on 1998-2005.
Current Replacement Pump Wet End for these old part numbers: 6500-257, 6500-262, 6500-264, 6500-265, 6500-266, 6500-757, 6500-762, 6500-764, 6500-765, 6500-766, 6500-769, 6500-347, 6500-349.
Used on Sundance Spa Models: Altamar, Bahia, Calypso, Calypso II, Cameo, Certa, Chelsee, Hamilton, Hartford, Hawthorne, Majesta, Marin, Madison, Maxxus, Montego, Optima, Palermo, Telluride
Used on Jacuzzi Premium Spa Models: J-325, J-330, J-335, J-340, J-345, J-350, J-355, J-360, J-365, J-370, J-375, J-380, J-385

PirWE25

Complete Sundance Wet End for 4.2/ 2.5 Hp Pumps.
Contains: front and rear housing, 2.5 Hp impeller, o-ring, seal and screws.  For Use on a 48 Frame Pump which Sundance used on 1998-2005.
Current Replacement pump wet end for these old part numbers: 6500-254, 6500-257, 6500-260, 6500-261, 6500-262, 6500-263, 6500-264, 6500-265, 6500-268, 6500-754, 6500-757, 6500-760, 6500-761, 6500-762, 6500-764, 6500-765, 6500-768

Used on Sundance Spa Models from 1998-2005: Altamar, Austin, Bahia, Burlington, Calypso, Calypso I, Calypso II, Cameo, Camden, Capri, Caprio ST, Cayman, Certa, Corum, Cyprus, Hamilton, Hartford, Hawthorne, Madison, Marin, Majesta, Maxxus, Montego, Olympia, Optima, Palermo, Rio, Telluride.

Used on Jacuzzi Premium Spa Models: J-325, J-330, J-335, J-340, J-345, J-350, J-355, J-360, J-365, J-370, J-375, J-380, J-385

PirWE15

Complete Sundance Wet End for 1.5 Hp Pumps.
Contains: front and rear housing, 1.5 Hp impeller, o-ring, seal and screws. For use on a 48 Frame Pump which Sundance used on 1998-2005.
Current Replacement pump wet end for these old part numbers: 6500-122, 6500-135, 6500-259, 6500-258, 6500-293, 6500-759, 6500-758, 6500-793, 6500-345

BN50-15-PIR
6500-345, Sundance Spas Pump, 1.5 HP, 120 Volt 2 Speed. 1997-Present

Current Replacement for these old part numbers: 6500-122, 6500-135, 6500-259, 6500-258, 6500-293, 6500-758, 6500-759, 6500-793.
Used on Sundance Spa Models: Aspen, Bali, Cheyenne, Denali, Dover, Metro, Solo, Suntub, Tango, Tacoma, Vail

BN62-25-PIR
6500-341 & 6500-355, Sundance Spas, Jacuzzi Spas Pump. 2.5/4.2 HP Rated, 240 Volt, Replacement Pump for 1997-Present Sundance Spas and Jacuzzi Premium Spas.

Used to Replace: old part numbers: 6500-126, 6500-128, 6500-131, 6500-254, 6500-261, 6500-263, 6500-266, 6500-269, 6500-754, 6500-763, 6500-766, 6500-769
Used on SUndance Spa Models 1997-2011: Altamar, Bahia, Calypso, Calypso II, Cameo, Certa, Chelsee, Hamilton, Hartford, Hawthorne, Majesta, Marin, Madison, Maxxus, Montego, Optima, Palermo, Telluride
Used on Jacuzzi Premium Spa Models: J-325, J-330, J-335, J-340, J-345, J-350, J-355, J-360, J-365, J-370, J-375, J-380, J-385

Summer Garden in the OC

June 1st, 2011 by

summer-garden-inthe-OCFinally got the summer garden planted this year. Planted a little late because the cold weather carried on later than normal. Soon to have fresh tomatoes, bell peppers, squash, zucchini, cucumbers, strawberries, and artichokes. Can’t wait.

Do you have a summer garden that you plant? What are you planting this year?

Herb gardens are easy to grow if you’ve never planted anything before. Basil, Oregano, Parsley. Onions and Garlic are also quite easy to grow.

If you have deer, rabbits or hungry squirrels, you may consider a small fence of chicken wire. Using one of those garden balloons (with the big eye) can be useful to keep marauding birds from your garden.

 

I’m considering planting an Avocado tree (something of a luxury here in the OC)

Fresh garden vegetables are so tasty, and good for you too!

 

Back Pain and Hot Tubs

May 20th, 2011 by

I played competitive tennis in high school and college. I injured by back playing and training and have had severe back pain since for almost 15 years and have not been able to play since.

About 2 years ago I had reached my breaking point and just could not tolerate the pain and discomfort anymore. I had to walk with my head down constantly scanning the ground to avoid unlevel areas and curbs, since they would really aggravate my back and sometimes floor me. Walking up and down handicap ramps was a way of life for me. I went to my MD to get it checked out and hear the dreaded news.

They took x-rays and an MRI. They told me I had 3 compressed and bulging discs. One had burst and was so flat there was less than 1ml of disc left. The bones in my spine were so close together that they were pressing on a nerve and causing the pain and immobility. The doctor gave me some pain medications and a referral to a specialist. The specialist suggested surgery, but the surgery is not guaranteed to work, in fact, it could make the problem worse.

I felt I had to find other options, so during my hunt I came across a brochure for spinal decompression therapy. It is a treatment process that targets the specific damaged discs and attempts to place the body in the position to repair the discs. They do not guarantee results either, but they have had many successful results from previous patients.

I figured I would try it and if it didn’t work, well, I’m back to opting for surgery or looking for other options. The process starts out with heat treatment, then decompression, then electrotherapy, then massage. You must drink plenty of water and be fully hydrated for the process to work.

The decompression is quite an experience. You are strapped to a machine at the torso. You are then strapped to a bench and the machine angles itself to isolate the disc to be treated. The machine slowly pulls and releases your torso and the disc space. Pulling the disc space apart creates a vacuum and forces fluid back into the disc space.

After enough treatments, the fluid will remain in the disc space and the disc itself will seal with the fluid inside. This will keep the bones apart and prevent them from pressing or pinching the nerves. A treatment takes about 1-1/2 hours. After about a year and close to 50 treatments, I now feel great and have had no problems with my back or treatments for over 7 months.

I definitely had my ups and downs during the process. At about the 20th treatment, I wasn’t getting any better and had pretty much lost hope of it working on me. I stuck to it though and a week or two later, I slowly started feeling better.

I now play tennis at least twice a week and feel great. In fact, I just became a certified teaching professional with the USPTA and plan on teaching lessons over the summer! If my back stiffens up, all I really need now is a good soak in my hot tub.

If you would like to know more about spinal decompression therapy, you can look them up on the web at www.nospinesurgery.com.

Brian

Testing Hot Tub and Spa Sensors

April 15th, 2011 by
Balboa Spa Parts Spa Sensor, Balboa M7, LE, Valu Heaters, Acts as high-Limit or Temperature, 12 inches long

How to Test Spa Sensors for Continuity

With your electrical test meter set to 100k ohms, test the green and black wires for continuity.

Depending on the temperature it will give you a value. It is based on a 10k ohm resister. At 77 degrees it will read 10k ohms. As the temperature rises it will have a lower resistance and as the temperature lowers it will have a higher resistance.

Generally, all of the spa sensors will read 10-12k at 70 to 80F for resistance. If your readings are much less, this can indicate a break in the “Continuous” circuit, power not flowing through properly.

Planting Claymores! Hottubworks.com Gamers

March 31st, 2011 by

call-of-duty

The majority of employees here at Hot Tub Works enjoy playing video games. Lately, we have all been playing Call of Duty: Black Ops after work. It can be described as a virtual paint ball game that uses modern weaponry.

It makes for great conversation the next day, when one of your work mates has a really bad game the previous night. Nothing can be worse than getting stuck by a Tomahawk or Semtex tipped crossbow bolt, you will hear about it at work the next day!

These games are played online, with other players, both work buddies, and unknown strangers from all over the world. If you want to join us, look for my screen name: BLACKFOOTED.

 

Winterizing a Spa or Hot Tub

March 25th, 2011 by

How to winterize your spa or hot tub

Blow Out the Spa Pipes

If you plan on draining your spa or hot tub for the winter, be sure to use a wet / dry vac to suck out any residual water in the plumbing lines and equipment.

Water will expand about 9 times it size when it freezes and will easily crack plumbing fittings, manifolds, and spa pump wet-ends.

To remove water from spa or hot tub pipes, place the vacuum nozzle over the jets, suction fittings, filter plumbing, and equipment to quickly remove the access water and prevent a huge repair when Spring comes around. You can make special hose attachments by using various fittings, and duct tape, to make the best seal against skimmers, spa jets and pumps.

You can also use the wet dry vac as a blower, to blow out the spa pipes. Connect to your skimmer pipe to blow air through the spa pack. Turn on your spa blower while you are blowing out the hot tub pipes. Move the vac or blower, around to different parts of the spa, to try to get air into every possible area.

This is also important to prevent standing water from growing bacteria inside of the pipes. Keep blowing air through all of the spa jets, until all of the moisture has been blown out of the pipes and equipment.

For this reason, it is also recommended to use a Spa Purge product before draining the spa, to clear the pipes and equipment of biofilm bacteria. We have two excellent hot tub pipe cleaners – Rendezvous Spa Rinse or Leisure Time Jet Clean.

To complete your hot tub winterization, remove any drain plugs on the pump and filter and open the drain valve all the way. Get the last little bit of water out with a sponge and bucket.

Shut off the power to the spa, so the pumps don’t accidentally turn on while the hot tub is winterized.

Secure your spa cover for winter with Wind Straps if you have high winds. Use the Cover Cap, to protect hot tub covers from weather all winter long.

~ brian

Titanium Heater Elements and Ozone Seals

March 11th, 2011 by

Some spa and hot tub manufacturers are offering Ozone generators and/or Salt Water systems to sanitize the water. Although beneficial to water quality, salt and ozone can be detrimental to equipment like standard heater elements and standard pump seals.

To combat this I suggest you use Titanium heater elements and Salt/Ozone pump seals; which are more resistant than the standard versions to the corrosive effects of ozone and salt.

Flothru Heater Element

These heater elements are more expensive, being made from Titanium and all… but if you’re replacing a standard element every 1-2 years, there can be a quick payback in a few years. The ozone grade pump shaft seals are only a few dollars more than standard grade.

So, if your spa heating element look deteriorated and corroded, and you use salt and/or ozone to sanitize, my recommendation is to replace with a version that can withstand the salts in the water.

If your shaft seal is failing, and you use ozone in the water, look for a softening and puckering of the rubber portions of the shaft seal, or possibly corrosion on the spring portion.

Testing Spa or Hot Tub Heater Elements

March 3rd, 2011 by

Spa Heater Element testing

 

Good heaters elements between 4.0 and 5.5kw should have the following results:

* 9-12 ohms of resistance
* good continuity
* draw 15-25 amps at 240v

You test the element by using an Ohm meter, or any multi-meter will work also. Just place it on Ohms, at 1000, and place your test leads on each of the terminals (power to spa heater should be off). As mentioned above,  a measurement of 9-12 Ohms of resistance usually indicates a good element.

To test for voltage, use an Amp meter, and use your test leads to measure the amp draw for the element. Excessive amp draw indicates a bad element, and no amp draw indicates that no power is reaching the terminals.

Poor spa chemistry can harm your spa heater elements, as can operating without water flowing over the element (which the pressure switch is designed to protect against).