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Simply put, Standard Shipping is FREE to any address in the contiguous 48 states. Shipping costs to Alaska, Hawaii and Canada are determined by weight. On shipments totaling less than $100, there is a nominal $4.95 HANDLING charge per shipment to help cover our costs of assembling and packaging your entire order. You are charged for handling only ONCE PER ORDER no matter how many items you buy. We suppose we could bury the handling charge in our product pricing but we'd rather give you the option of burying more items in your order to reduce the handling cost per item. Pretty crafty huh? OK, maybe not. There are no outrageous mark-ups hidden within shipping charges.
In the event that you provide us with the wrong shipping address and your package has already shipped, there will be a rerouting fee. Incorrect shipping address re-rerouting fee for hot tub covers is $125.00, and $25.00 for non-cover orders.
We offer expedited shipping options as a service to our customers with the exception of Spa Cover orders. Expedited shipping charges will be added to the order. Cutoff time for expediting an order is 2:00 PM (Central Time), Monday through Friday.
About Spa Cover Shipping
Spa covers normally take about 3 - 6 weeks from the time of order to actual delivery (time varies by location). That's about a week and a half in production and seven days in transit. Spa Covers are shipped by LTL (Less Than Truckload), a tractor trailer, and require someone to accept and sign for the delivery. Please call us to order at 1.800.770.0292.
Currently we do not ship spa covers to Canada.
Welcome to the Hot Tub Works Spa & Hot Tub Water Problems page, a Q&A on spa water issues or problems. If you don’t see your spa chemistry question listed, send us an email!
HELP! My spa has had greenish tinged but yet clear water for weeks now. I have tried several things and the water is balanced. Have added the metal gone but did not make a difference. Anyone have ideas?
Make sure all your filter cycles are still set. Also make sure the filter is clean if not new. Sometimes if you cannot get the water to clear up you will need to drain and start over. Most pool or spa stores will also check your water balance free of charge by taking a sample to their store. To be sure that pH and bromine levels are proper. In some cases, minerals will color the water a bright clear green, but it’s a rare condition.
Thank you so much, that is exactly what i had to do - dump and refill. The TDS was too high and not salvageable. Thank you for your reply!
Small fines/sand in Spa Water
I have a 1991 Sundance Marin. It has been maintained quite well over the years and is still working! However, I am now getting small white and black 'fines/sand' in the water. I've drained & cleaned it numerous times in a row. Nothing works, it keeps coming back. I thoroughly clean and replace the filter and after each filling, I checked for anything in the water from the faucet, 'nothing'. COULD SOME OF THE INTERNAL LINES BE BREAKING DOWN? If it is all PVC I can't imagine that happening. Is there a product I can use that will clean the lines for me?
Spa pcv pipes don’t normally break down, but they can in very adverse water conditions. Couple things I’d like to verify. Do the black particles smear like grease? Do the white particles feel like rubber? Have you changed the brand of chemicals recently?
I have a similar problem with my HotSpring spa - small, fine white-beige sand crystals. I change the water and it appears to work for a while and then they start to "grow" all over the inside of the spa. I use Spa Down because of extremely hard water, use a calcium and iron filter when I fill the spa. I'm pretty sure it is probably the water, chemicals, or some cross reactivity but any suggestions on how to make it stop? I live in a cold climate so changing the water in the middle of winter isn't an option.
Has this been happening for a while now? Have you recently changed the brand of spa chemicals that you are currently using? You can find cheaper chemicals out there but a lot of times these will contain fillers and leave by products behind. A quality chemical may cost more but in the long run you use less because they aren't filled with fillers.
For your second question, about a product to clean the lines, yes these do exist with names like Spa Purge or Jet Clean. A good process to do, at least once per year, it strips biofilm and bacteria from pipes and small crevices. Which could be the stuff you see in the water, if it’s kind of soft and slimy.
For your second comment, small white crystals sound like calcium coming out of solution. For very hard water areas, definitely use a pre-filter (as you mention) when filling the spa. Also use a sequestering agent, to keep metals and minerals locked in solution, like Spa Metal Out.
Switching from Chlorine to Bromine
I just got my spa and was given what I think is poor advice and began using chlorine instead of bromine tablets- I think they accomplish similar things but the chlorine smell is much stronger. Is it ok to switch chemicals without changing the water?
If you are going to use chlorine as a sanitizer, then should always use a granular chlorine not tablets. Chlorine tablets are much stronger and can cause ph problems. Granular is more neutral and suitable for spas. Bromine tablets are the most common hot tub / spa sanitizer. It does have less ordor than chlorine. If you switch over draining is probably best. But you can add sodium bromide to existing water to assure complete conversion if draining is not an option.
Baqua Spa Level Too High
I have a hard time reading those Baqua Spa test strips, and it appeared that the sanitizer was too low, so I added some, and now I have cloudy water. I took a sample to my dealer who is the one that confirmed that there was too much sanitizer in it. He said not to add any for at least a month, and I'd probably have to drain the water. I really don't want to do that, I only had fresh water in there for a week before this occurred.
Unfortunately, I would recommend that you drain at least some of the water. If you have too much Baqua Spa in your spa it can cause damage to other components. For instance, it can harm your spa pump seal or cause a calcium build up on the spa heating element, and gum up the spa filter.
Drained about 6" of water, threw a cup of Spa Perfect in it, a day later it was crystal clear, been like that ever since.
White Water Mold
We drained and refilled my Optima spa, due to a FLO error, which included replacing the filter. When I started it up, it would not come on. Serviceman determined bad circulation pump, so I had to drain the spa again and wait 2.5 wks. for him to return. He replaced the pump, and when I refilled and started the spa, lots of whitish, flakey gunk blew out of the jets. Spa Store advised it was "water mold?" and to put in 1/2 bag of pool shock and circulate for 1 hr., then drain and refill, which I did. At startup, even more gunk blew out of the jets. I have used a skimmer to capture as much as I can, but feel like there is something else going on. Any ideas on how to resolve?
Spa water mold does look like a whitish gunky material sometimes flaky like little bits of tissue. I am not sure this is what you have but does sound like it. If it is indeed spa water mold you must treat immediately and don't skimp. You want to clean all spa surfaces, including behind spa pillows, around jets and anyplace where mold can hide. Also make sure you clean inside the spa filter compartment. Even though your filter is new I would recommend it is soaked in a filter cleaning solution. You then want to shock with a triple or quadruple dose of spa shock treatment for your spa run for one hour then drain and refill. If your situation is very bad, then you may want to shock with chlorine and circulate one full day, then add Jet Clean or Spa Purge to soak the pipes overnight, then drain, refill and balance the water chemistry.
I just want to make sure I understand the process: The gunk came out after a spa cleaning, drain & refill that began with circulating 1/2 bag of pool shock (Burnout 35) for 1 hour. So, is your recommendation to clean spa w/ water in it, removing as much mold as possible, then adding the shock (is the other 1/2 bag of Burnout enough or should I use something else?), circulating for 1 - 24 hours, then drain and refill? How likely is it that more gunk will come out at startup after refill? I've had spas for 10 yrs without this kind of issue - what do you think caused it?
It is usually caused by poor or non circulating water. Bacteria exists in all spas at some time or another, just waiting for an opportunity to grow. When pipes are near empty in warm weather, the trace water remaining in the pipes makes a very humid and moist environment that’s perfect for bacteria to grow. Mold or biofilm can attach to the pvc and behind jets, etc. It can be difficult to get rid of if not treated well. So hit it hard! Not sure exactly what substance you have in there, but keep at it, but shock it heavily and use a ‘pipe stripper’ like Jet Clean or Spa Purge and I think I’d also replace the filter cartridge (again) after refilling the tub.
Foaming Hot Tub
I refilled the hot tub added some metal gone, and calcium and scale preventative. I am getting lots of foaming plus a green yellow scum on the side. I am using well water which has some iron in it. The PH is about 7.8.
Foam is usually caused by something being brought into the spa, and can be removed with spa foam removers. For instance, detergents on swim suits, shampoo, body lotions, hair products, make-up, etc. It is agitated by a high pH level, and you’re right on the edge at 7.8, so adjust it to 7.4-ish. Hot tub foam can also come from a low calcium hardness level, if you have soft water, less than 150 ppm, add calcium increaser to raise the level. The yellow/green scum line however, leads me to believe that some foreign substance or phosphate has washed in. Although it could be a reaction to adding too much sequestering agent, (metal gone and calcium/scale prevent are the same thing). I would also add that when filling from well water, using a pre-filter (on the hose) can make your water management a lot easier.
Hot Tub Stain Removal
I have very bad brown stains all over my tub. I know I SHOULD have used a metal remover years ago. but...NOW what do I do? I tried Fantastic and a stiff scrub brush last refill. Any suggestions?
Yes, if metal is a problem with your spa water you should always use a Stain & Scale product, like Metal Gon/Defender. Sometimes these products will also remove spa stains after treatment. Another recommendation is to always fill the spa using a Pre-Filter on the hose, to trap minerals, metals, bacteria, etc. Since these stains are very bad you can try citric acid to remove them but I would consult with the spa manufacturer prior to doing so to make sure it will not harm the surface of the spa. If they give you the go ahead, you would want to make sure your pH and alkalinity are correct first. Then you can add a small amount of citric acid on the stain, poured into a pipe and see if it dissolves it, nearly instantly. If so, add a cup of Stain Free to the spa, following label directions. Don’t use commercial pool stain removers on a spa with an acrylic finish, unless advised by the manufacturer.
Spa Water Odor
I use Nature2, plus leisure time shock, and spa 56 and get good results. Test strips always look great and I am using minimal amount of shock, and chlorine, along with occasional minor ph and alkalinity adjustments boosts. My problem is a persistent mildew odor that emanates from the spa, and clings to bathers.
If spa chemicals are in balanced as well as the pH a mildew smell could be coming from the spa cover. If your cover is not new and a few years old, it's very likely that is the cause. You can try to remove the cover, and lay it on the ground gently, upside down, and spray the underside with a bleach solution, 4 parts water, 1-part bleach. Stand it up and rinse it off with a soft hose, and let it dry for a day before putting back on the tub. Also if your spa has pillows it is a good idea to remove those and clean with a mild soapy water, followed by a quick bleach spray. I also recommend removing spa pillows when not using the spa, this will prolong the life of the pillows. The area between the spa cover and the water is very harsh and over time the cover can absorb this odor. If the odor persists and continues to cling to bathers, perhaps a new spa filter will help. And changing the water should help. Have you tried shocking the spa with 2-3 oz per 100 gallons? (a heavy dose). Spa scents are also available, if you can’t fix it, cover it up with something else!
Greasy Buildup at Waterline
I am getting at light brown to yellow greasy build-up around the water line on my spa. Chemical levels are within limits. I have bought several spa flush products and flushed to spa 3 times. This build-up is greasy and sticky. I am at a loss. I removed the lines going into both pumps and I don't see any build-up. The main circulation pump is starting to make some noise and I was wondering if I could have a seal or bearing going bad leaking oil or grease into the spa.
I am not sure what is causing but I would try a spa enzyme product, and also you may want to use a scum absorber to see if that makes a difference. I don't see how a pump seal or any of the mechanics in the spa could cause this build up, there are no oils in the spa equipment. If you haven’t changed the water in a few months, I’d start there if possible, re-filling the spa using a Pre-Filter (especially if you use well water), and replacing the spa filter cartridge. Also if you use well water, treat the spa with a Metal Gone type of product, to keep minerals and metals in solution. Finally, consider the possibility of this gunk from spa users. Body oils, dirt, cosmetics and lotions, fabric softeners and detergents (in bathing suits), can all lead to greasy, foamy spa water.
Grandkids & Bromine Level
About once a month we have all the grandkids (ages 4-14) in our hot tub in one evening. The water will be crystal clear before they get in. I double shock with Renew when they get out. The next morning, the water is so cloudy you can't see the bottom. All the chemical levels are good except bromine, which is virtually gone. Foaming and scummy bubbles are horrible. It takes up to 10 days to get it back to normal. I have to crush 2 or 3 bromine tabs, use sodium bromide liberally, and open the floater completely. What on their little bodies is killing the bromine levels and what would it take to get back to normal faster?
Ha! Well let’s see, it could be a blend of body oils, skin flakes, shampoos/soaps/detergents, and plain ol’ dirt on their skin and in their hair. And if they aren’t using the bathroom before they use the spa. Wash all their suits in the washer, without any detergent, and lay down a ‘shower first’ rule. For the possibility of urine, you could buy a funny sign, or just tell them flat out to not pee in the hot tub. Enzymes or Bright & Clear can be used as additional measures to help keep the water clear when they are visiting.