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Simply put, Standard Shipping is FREE to any address in the contiguous 48 states. Shipping costs to Alaska, Hawaii and Canada are determined by weight. On shipments totaling less than $100, there is a nominal $4.95 HANDLING charge per shipment to help cover our costs of assembling and packaging your entire order. You are charged for handling only ONCE PER ORDER no matter how many items you buy. We suppose we could bury the handling charge in our product pricing but we'd rather give you the option of burying more items in your order to reduce the handling cost per item. Pretty crafty huh? OK, maybe not. There are no outrageous mark-ups hidden within shipping charges.
In the event that you provide us with the wrong shipping address and your package has already shipped, there will be a rerouting fee. Incorrect shipping address re-rerouting fee for hot tub covers is $125.00, and $25.00 for non-cover orders.
We offer expedited shipping options as a service to our customers with the exception of Spa Cover orders. Expedited shipping charges will be added to the order. Cutoff time for expediting an order is 2:00 PM (Central Time), Monday through Friday.
About Spa Cover Shipping
Spa covers normally take about 3 - 6 weeks from the time of order to actual delivery (time varies by location). That's about a week and a half in production and seven days in transit. Spa Covers are shipped by LTL (Less Than Truckload), a tractor trailer, and require someone to accept and sign for the delivery. Please call us to order at 1.800.770.0292.
Currently we do not ship spa covers to Canada.
Welcome to the Hot Tub Works Spa & Hot Tub Leak Detection page, a Q&A on leaking spas, how to find the leak and how to fix it. If you don’t see your leaking spa question, send us an email!
Cracked Hot Tub
May I ask what is the best way to correct cracks in the tub or should I say the best product for repairing the cracks?
When repairing a crack in your acrylic hot tub you need to use the smallest drill bit you have to drill each end of the crack just through the acrylic surface which is very thin. This will usually prevent the crack from getting any larger. There are many acrylic repair kits on the market and for the most part all work well. The most economical way to fill the crack is simply to use clear acrylic nail polish, but for a better finished repair, you can buy a kit from that will closely approximate the color of the spa shell.
Hot Tub Leak
Our Tiger River tub has a leak; what is the best way to troubleshoot this when the leak is not in front by the pump; it appears to be coming from the side of the tub; when we drain the tub below the jets, the leak stops.
This could actually be a spa jet, air line to the jet, manifold, or PVC fitting. The side panel of the spa cabinet usually needs to be removed and the foam exposed. Sometimes you can see the saturated area but not always. By using a wooden dowel rod, you can probe the foam to find where the moisture is coming from. Once you find the wet area, you would need to remove the foam to expose the leak. Once the leak is repaired successfully, you can replace the foam by using a spa spray foam kit. Most likely you will find the leak either on the backside of the jet (bad gasket or loose locknut), or at a glue joint where the pipes enter the jet body assembly or manifold. In such a case, the best repair is to replace fittings, so you can glue new pipe ends directly into it, rejoining the pipe with unions.
Hot Spring Spa Panel Removal?
How do I go about removing panels from a Hot Springs Jetsetter. I have a leak like the ones posted above, and I need to check inside. Thanks!
There should be staples on each end holding the panels in place. You can use the end of a claw hammer or a large flathead screwdriver to pry them up with, in between the panel sections. Proceed gently to avoid dinging up the edge. When replacing the panel (after you are sure the leak is fixed), the staples probably won’t grab ahold tight anymore, so snap off the ends and go back with small wood screws or with a staple gun using long enough staples to hold the panel tight.
Leak on Hot Spring Spa
I've got a Hot Spring Grandee 1992 and it sprung a slow leak somewhere in the lower 1/3. I don't think I can take off the side panel so it looks like my only option is to turn it on the side.
The Hot Spring spa side panels are removable. They are stapled onto a frame that goes around the spa. Once the skirting has been removed you may see signs of water where it's leaking. If not evident, a wooden dowel rod can be used to probe around the spa to find moisture. If you do not feel comfortable removing the skirt the spa can be tipped on its side (when empty) and using the wooden dowel you can locate the leak same way. The down side to this would be it is easier to find a leak if there is water still in the spa to at least the level it is draining to. But since you already know that it drains 2/3 of the water, the leak may be more easily accessed by tipping the spa. Be sure to stabilize the spa after tipping, to prevent any possibility of it falling over.
Leaky Slice Valve
I have a leaking slice valve on my Cal Spa hot tub. What is the easiest way to replace this valve? There is an elbow permanently glued on one side and another fitting (I think a check valve) on the other side. Is there a way to dissolve the old glue or will I have to cut the flex pipe and add to it?
Unfortunately you will need to cut it out to do it properly and to prevent future leaks. There are slice valves with union attachments, that can be quickly swapped out, but I don’t suppose you have one of those. Sometimes plumbing in tight spaces requires replacing more pipe and fittings than you want, because there’s no space left on the line. In some cases, a fitting called a Pipe Extender can be useful, when you have to cut the pipe right up against a fitting or check valve. If you have to cut right up against a check valve or fitting, often a pipe can be cut out from the inside of the fitting by slicing through the pipe with a hacksaw blade (blade only, no saw), in several places, and then use a flat head screwdriver and hammer to chip off the pvc quadrants.
Best Sealant for Filter Leak?
I have a leak from where the filter box mounts to the tub. I plan on pulling it off and re-sealing this but can someone recommend the best sealant to use for this type of application?
In most cases, Filters are not sealed with a sealant, but with a round o-ring or flat gasket. Replace the gasket and make sure the locknut underneath is tight to seal the filter up to the spa shell. If you did want to use a sealant in addition to the spa filter gasket you can, and I would recommend Blue RTV silicone sealant. Just a small bead around the crux of the filter overhang (top side), have a rag handy to wipe up quickly any that squeezes out.
Skimmer Leaking on Spa
I have the same problem with my Amish Country spa at the same spot. It leaks at the flange, at the top of the filter basket. I lower the water level below this flange and the leak stops. There are six screws on the flange, attaching the filter basket to the tub shell. I cannot get the flange removed. I think it must be PVC cemented fast to the plumbing below, with no union to disconnect there. I tried adding Fix-A-Leak, which stopped it in about 2 hours, but after I drained and refilled the spa, it started leaking again. A slow but steady drip, about 2 quarts a day in a catch bucket. If the spa was outside, I wouldn't care, as I could just top it off weekly. But it is inside, so I would prefer it fixed. There has got to be a way to get this flange apart. What would the professional spa repair people do in a case like this?
Is it possible to send me a digital picture of the filter set up and the bottom where you think it may be glued? Most filter set ups that have baskets have a front face plate that sandwiches the filter assembly to the wall of spa. They have screws around this faceplate with a gasket behind. I would like to see which style you have if possible.
Here are two attached photos. One of the filter basket, and the plumbing underneath the filter basket. The black stuff around the flange is rubber gasket cement I put on. It will easily scrape off. The blue coloring around the joints suggests that they are cemented fast.
There should be a gasket underneath the ring with the screws that probably should be replaced. I am sure you tried tightening the screws to try and get it to quit leaking. The canister is glued at the bottom where it attaches to the tee fitting. You may have enough room the unscrew the screws on top and drop canister enough to replace gasket. If not enough room, then the tee fitting would need to be cut out and replumb the fitting back to canister. That would be the best way to repair the leak, by replacing the gasket.
After a roundabout, I was able to locate a contact at Fox Pools who was familiar with servicing Amish Country spas. With his direction, I was able to push the whole filter basket assembly up from below about 1.5 inches, after unbolting the flange and cutting away the sprayed on insulation at the shell and basket joint underneath. After scraping away the old silicone sealant, I applied new sealant under the flange and re-bolted the basket down. I had enough clearance so I didn't have to cut any pipes. No leaks now.
Water Level Going Down
Has anyone ever had this problem? We can't find anything leaking, and we have decided water is "leaking" from both sides of the cover. It is always wet around the sides of the tub, and I have to add water at least once a week.
If you think that water is leaking from the cover seal it may be time to replace the spa cover. Not only are you losing water but heat if it is not sealing properly.
It’s a brand new tub, that of course, is no longer under warranty, once it was warm enough to take the sides off to check for leaks. Shouldn't a new cover be good? You can actually watch water dripping off the "apron" on the sides of the cover.
A good spa cover will make all the difference in the world. If you are losing water due to condensation, then you are also losing heat thus costing money. So sometimes it is worth the extra and get a good quality cover. There is also something called cover wind straps, that are intend to use in windy areas. This may help with your situation, to pull the cover tightly onto the surface. Check also that your cover straps are snug, and not loose when attached.
Spa Air Line Leaks
I have a leak in the airline in my Catalina. The leak is in a hose connection to a plastic manifold. It is below the waterline so it leaks water. There is a flexible vinyl (?) hose, approx. 2" ID that was glued into a flange in the plastic manifold. I've been able to remove the hose and only lost about a half inch of pipe. I'd like to clean the flange and the hose up and re-glue it. Would 3M 5200 Marine adhesive be a good choice?
I am not sure what 3M 5200 would do to flex pvc pipe. I can only recommend that you use a PVC glue. Most manufacturers will use a blue PVC glue. They may have just not got a good bond on this manifold you are working on. It may be best to cut more of the pipe end off, a few inches, and then use a coupling to rejoin the pipe, while also gluing the pipe back into the manifold.
Leaking Split Nut Union
I have a Balboa spa pack inside an Infinity hot tub. The union to the left of the spa pack has a split nut union covering it. This leaks when the jets (three of them) are set on the highest setting. Then the water runs out of the split nut union. If the jets are on low, it drips occasionally. If the pumps are not on, nothing leaks. I'm wondering if the entire union needs to be replaced, or if this might be a faulty o ring. Any thoughts?
Unless the split nut union has a small hair line crack in it then it probably is a faulty or pinched union o-ring that is causing the leak. If you can close off the valves, you won’t need to drain the spa to fix, but you will still spill a little water.
Thanks, so much Mary! I sincerely appreciate your answer. I closed the valves and removed the split nut and the o-ring has started to deteriorate around the edges. I hear they have to be replaced every few years and this spa is a few years old. I ordered a few new o-rings and also got the split nut just to be on the safe side.
How to Stop a Leak?
Here’s the story. We have replaced all the seals/gaskets and have no leaks from the plumbing anywhere. This is a Baja spa. I almost am wondering if there is a leak in the tub itself. There is nothing obvious. Im thinking maybe under where the air blower sends the bubbles on the bottom of the tub. Its real cold here so too much messing with it is out of the question. I lose almost half the water in only 4 days, but can’t even see wet on the pad it sits on. Any advice? Is there a liquid sealer that I can put in and have it fill where ever the crack may be as the water flows out? I am at my wits end with this.
It very well may be in a leak somewhere in the hot tub plumbing to the jets or air injectors. Does it always drain to the same spot and then stop leaking? If so it is probably one of the jets that is at that level. You should see signs of water on one side of the spa it’s soaking right into the ground. There is a product that is called "Fix a leak" that is made for very small leaks. It may work but you will probably need to replace the broken part that is leaking when weather permits. Most spa are foam filled and in the area that is leaking it will be saturated. When you find what side it’s leaking on, the normal process is to remove the cabinet panel on that side and poke around with a wooden dowel until the dowel comes out wet. Then remove the foam in that area to expose the leak. On large leaks however, there will be a lot of wet foam, so you may have to let it dry out to test again, if you want to pinpoint it more closely.